headers

[Outlaw]

I ordered some long tube headers from summit for a D100. They run straight into my cross member! so now i'm looking for a set of medium style. i don't want shorties but i don't want long tubes. What do you guys recomend me getting. i would get on summit again but i don't want to have the wrong kind shipped to me. i'm not trying to find anthing to break the bank either. I have a D100 with a 383. Thanks.

[wally426ci]

what year?

[wedgehead]

Are you talking about the auto trans crossmember? If so I have a solution.

Ernie

[Outlaw]

68 D100 383 w/727. yeah, the tranny cross member.

[chilort]

Are you handy with a welder? I think the only solution is to make your own.

Hooker claims to make some that fit the '67 and '68 but they 100% do not fit. The manual trans cross member is right in the way.

This cross member is what is really in your way. This is the Hooker header in the photo but it is actually several inches away from touching the head.


I cut most of the cross member out with an angle grinder.


Once the manual cross member is out of the way then you can get the headers in but the collector is still pointed at the automatic cross member. I talked with the folks at Hooker (I'd like to put the bottom of my boot in the face of their technician ) and they say I'm having trouble with the auto cross member because I have a RB rather than a B block but I don't know if I buy it. But this is what I had to do to get around the auto cross member.


Someone had a set of shorty headers that work in these trucks with a big block but now I don't remember who. I had a set of shortys but I had the wrong engine mount (the hard mount, not the isolator) in this truck and when I put in the correct mount my shorts would no longer work. Unless you are running lots of compression and really like to twist it out there is almost no difference on the dyno between long tube and short tube headers. The more compression you run the more critical the long tube headers become.

[wedgehead]

I had the same problem, first I cut 9" out of the crossmember. Then I just flipped everything upside down , I also made a extra support plate and bolted it to C/M. The trans. stayed at the same height. I have 3" exhaust and it has no clearance problems, here are a few pics. so you can get an idea.


Good Luck Ernie

[Rodger]

Hello There

I too have a solution that produces more power than stock.
It is hard for some to accept because it does not fit
the idea of "visual appeal".

The stock 383 had just a "y" pipe with a single muffler
and etc.

But you want more HP and some better MPG to go with it.

The lowest costing way to do this is to have dual pipes the
same inside diameter as your Stock Exhaust Manifolds and
route them to a NAPA Auto Parts # 21-400 with your 383.

The end result is power equal to dual pipes and the cost of
a single system.

The next level of lower costing power enhancement is to use
the same Stock Exhaust Manifolds from a 1978 to 1976 440
or 400 powered Dodge Trk with the same Exhaust System
as above. Any Dyno will show you the improvement of power
from the above.

The sad part of installing either of the above is that you will
not need to cut - redesign and reweld any part of your truck.
Nor will you ever need to think "what if the starter needs
replacing" ( watch for some to reply on this one ). And, ...
the cost is about 1/2 of using just the dual exhaust part of the
exhaust system.

Many times it about power cost vs "me thinks I have power".


Rodger & Gabby
COS

[Outlaw]

I was originally working with a buddy to rebuild a new cross member but now i'm trying to avoid that. i'm not using the truck to go down the 1/4 track. i just want more air flow. thanks for the ideas though.

is there a mid way header that would work that you guys know of?

[712edf]

is there a mid way header that would work that you guys know of?

HEDMAN # 75820 upright pulling headers. Over $500 a pair, need to remove hood or cut holes in it, won't clear M/C if you have power brakes & NOT street legal......So either you are stuck with making mods or go Rodgers route. Tubular headers CAN be made for these rigs that will fit/work perfectly. But they will have to be custom built & pricey. Off the shelf & mail order stuff usually falls short, IMHO>

Bucky

[chilort]

Wedgehead, that is beautiful work. I do have one question though, what did you do for a parking break mount? Or do you have a '69 and newer chassis? On the '68 the parking break mount attaches to the manual trans mount and I cut that part away. I need to fab up a mount for mine I guess though I've thought about just taking it out...but that seems like a bad idea.

Headers make the same or more power than manifolds throughout the functional rpm band of the engine. We've covered this before with plenty of data. viewtopic.php?f=19&t=19861&start=0

There are reasons not to use headers. They are nosier, they are more prone to rusting out, and if you get some with thin flanges they may warp. Of course, 40 year old exhaust manifolds with tens of thousands of heat cycles warp too (which is why I hesitate to recommend anyone buy HP maniolds off eBay sight unseen and why I didn't do it). And yes, I've had warped manifolds. Ones that were warped so badly that the local machine shop said it would be cheaper to buy a new manifold then to have them fix it (of course, the previous owner had ran it with the warped manifold for who knows how long). If you get headers with thick flanges they seem to hold up rather well.

These guys used to make a shorty header that JeffC recommended. I went with the Headmans at the time because I live near a Summit outlet and I was in a hurry. They don't list the headers on the site anymore but they may be worth a phone call. Who knows, they may be interested in making some kind of a long tube header for these trucks especially considering how often it comes up and how few solutions are out there. http://www.ssautochrome.com/level.itml/icOid/1425

[wedgehead]

Thanks, It is the 68 frame but I dont have an E-brake it has rear disc. It is not an everyday driver so I'm not to concerned I just watch where I do park.

Ernie

[garrett]

I picked up a pair of headmans for a 72 4wd they fit like a glove.

[chilort]

I picked up a pair of headmans for a 72 4wd they fit like a glove.

What kind of engine mounts do you have?

I was able to get the Headmans I got (pn?) to fit on the passenger side with the correct style mounts with just one ding.


I bashed on the driver side header for a while and never could get it to fit. I finally gave up.


This kind of mount is just too much in the way.


These headers could work with the mounts that go straight up (like the newer trucks) rather than the ones that bulge out. Or one could cut out the one offending tube on the ones I have and reroute it. I'd let these shortys I've got left over from my project for a little more than shipping (like $50 plus shipping OBO) if someone wants to give it a whirl.

[chilort]

Thanks, It is the 68 frame but I dont have an E-brake it has rear disc. It is not an everyday driver so I'm not to concerned I just watch where I do park.

Ernie

Yeah, I thought about that too since mine isn't a daily drive either. I'm just a little worried about that "uh oh" moment though there is likely almost no chance the e-brake could actually stop the truck.

[BradyB]

So are Headman's the only ones that will fit?
http://www.hedman.com/products/?id=3538&rsku=5488
I've got that new 1970 D100 383 Auto 2wd. One of the mufflers is blown out from a back fire. I figure that if I'm going to redo the exhaust I might as well do headers as well at the same time. I'm going to want this truck loud and sounding good, I want the small children in the neighborhood to be very afraid.

Along with the headers, maybe a pair of straight cherry bombs with the exhaust exiting just before the rear tire; that should sound good and scary.

[chilort]

So are Headman's the only ones that will fit?
http://www.hedman.com/products/?id=3538&rsku=5488
I've got that new 1970 D100 383 Auto 2wd. One of the mufflers is blown out from a back fire. I figure that if I'm going to redo the exhaust I might as well do headers as well at the same time. I'm going to want this truck loud and sounding good, I want the small children in the neighborhood to be very afraid.

Along with the headers, maybe a pair of straight cherry bombs with the exhaust exiting just before the rear tire; that should sound good and scary.

I'd look at application note 13 for those headers. Even though it lists that those headers fit every size engine (????) the note then says "A-engine only."

[Outlaw]

i found some shorty block hugers that i think i'm going to go with. i wanted a mid length but it looks like no one makes them and i really don't want to change the stock cross member. Thanks for the help though.

[BradyB]

I’ll just do a pair of cherry bombs then, headers aren’t worth the effort unless they are really easy to bolt up. The performance gains (better mileage) with the straight through mufflers should be fine.

I just hope it won’t be too loud for Barney Fife.

[garrett]

The mounts are stock as far as i know

[soopernaut]

Some of those posting do not have 68 or older trucks. Headers are easy on 69-71 trucks. Do not confuse the two subjects.