changing the oil in 8 3/4 rear end

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changing the oil in 8 3/4 rear end

Postby dodge74x4 » Tue Feb 23, 2010 10:29 pm

front gear oil change went smoothly, now time to do the back. anyone know the oil capacity for the 8 3/4 rear end? also my rearend is a sure grip, what and how much additive do i need to use? thanks


eric
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Re: changing the oil in 8 3/4 rear end

Postby Rodger » Tue Feb 23, 2010 11:33 pm

Eric

First remove all the oil that is in the unit ( they use a device that "sucks"
the stuff out ).

At any place that sales oils ask for four pints of "Trac-Lock" Rear Axle
Fluid ( they sale three times as much of this in the Chevy verbage than
you asking for "Sure-Grip" ).

If all the old stuff is gone, you should use 3 3/4 pints.


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Re: changing the oil in 8 3/4 rear end

Postby MountainMoparRobin » Wed Feb 24, 2010 7:27 am

dodge74x4 wrote:front gear oil change went smoothly, now time to do the back. anyone know the oil capacity for the 8 3/4 rear end? also my rearend is a sure grip, what and how much additive do i need to use? thanks


eric

The official way to add grease, is to fill until it starts coming out the fill hole, then cap it.
when checking the grease level you use your firts finger and you should be able to touch the grease by only inserting finger to the nuckle.
It has been that way since the 30's :Thumbsup
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Re: changing the oil in 8 3/4 rear end

Postby Rodger » Wed Feb 24, 2010 10:07 am

Hola Class

It appears as it is time to scan Page 0-16 so the
Factory Photo ( aka fig. 20 ) can be shown doing
the deed of removing old worn out used ( aka
dirty ) oil.

Or do we change the subject to: How Does One
Add Just Enough Oil To Make The Level Correct.


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Re: changing the oil in 8 3/4 rear end

Postby nfury8 » Wed Feb 24, 2010 10:57 am

It is more work and mess, but if you have never had it open, I would consider
draining the oil by pulling the pumpkin. It isn't required and the fluid can be
pumped out as mentioned. But this will give you a good look at what is going
on in there. There could be some junk that might not otherwise get sucked out.
That would then make it easy to drill and tap a drain in the bottom of the housing
for later service. Sucking out 90w is a chore.

To pull the pumpkin, the axle shafts need pulled out a few inches, but this isn't
that hard, and can hopefully be timed during a rear break service or inspection.

Again not mandatory, just a thought for extra piece of mind.
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Re: changing the oil in 8 3/4 rear end

Postby jimmy » Wed Feb 24, 2010 8:23 pm

Nfury8 stated exactly how I've always done it. If the pumpkin is removed, you can wipe out all the krud that builds up. And offer insite to how things look. I've seen people pump the oil out with poor results. You'll never get all the oil out with a pump.

Also, you only change the oil every 50,000 anyway.
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Re: changing the oil in 8 3/4 rear end

Postby Rodger » Wed Feb 24, 2010 9:05 pm

Hello There

I do agree with the two of you that it is better
to remove the unit, clean and inspect. When
finished repalce the unit with a new gasket
and then add the fresh fluid.

It is a blurred scan, but I hope that all can
see there is a better way than just adding
fluid on top of yester-years gunk.


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Re: changing the oil in 8 3/4 rear end

Postby nfury8 » Wed Feb 24, 2010 10:16 pm

It should be noted that on a 4x4 that gets in water, the fluid should be changed much more often.
Hence the drain plugs.
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Re: changing the oil in 8 3/4 rear end

Postby MountainMoparRobin » Thu Feb 25, 2010 8:10 pm

Rodger wrote:Hola Class

It appears as it is time to scan Page 0-16 so the
Factory Photo ( aka fig. 20 ) can be shown doing
the deed of removing old worn out used ( aka
dirty ) oil.

Or do we change the subject to: How Does One
Add Just Enough Oil To Make The Level Correct.


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If you read the original post he asked for how much it holds. thats why I instucted him on how mechanics have done it for decades, no where can you read where I said put clean on top of dirty :study once its drained and buttoned up you have to replace the oil, you suggested to pump it out, I was trying to explain the amount doesn't matter it is full when it comes out the filler plug
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Re: changing the oil in 8 3/4 rear end

Postby dodge74x4 » Wed Mar 03, 2010 2:22 pm

ok. now that i know approximately how much oil to use i need to know how to remove the 3rd member. i know remove the bolts on the 3rd member, the driveshaft. wheels and drums. how do i pull the axles? thanks


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Re: changing the oil in 8 3/4 rear end

Postby Cageman » Thu Mar 04, 2010 3:13 am

Jack up rear end so both wheels are off the ground, place jack stands under rear, take off wheels, take off drum, wipe brake dust in eyes and hair, there is an odd hole in the axle flange, this is used to acces the 5 nuts that hold the axle in, sometimes after the nuts are taken off, the axle is hard to get out, I have a slide hammer that hooks to the studs for this. The one side has an adjuster on it that has a washerwith a tab on it that fits in the adjuster groove, if the axles have little to no endplay, then you dont need to mess with it, just put it back together the way it was. If there is evidence the axle seals leak, now is the time to change them, I use the ends of the axles to pop them out of the tubes, works good, then take the nuts off that hold the gears in. Since most of the nuts have been beate along with the studs, the threads will come right out of the nuts, so a tap will be needed to clean the studs threads and new nuts will need to be purchased. if your nuts have a thick coat of grease on them they might have been spared, but 9 times out of ten the lower nuts all lose their threads. They are 3/8 fine thread nuts too, fyi
clean out all the crap and do the opposite to put it all back together.
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Re: changing the oil in 8 3/4 rear end

Postby dodge74x4 » Tue Mar 09, 2010 2:52 pm

just finished up. thanks for the help i had no major issues.


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