Input shafted - doin the jiggle!!!

[milestrap]

Thanks for the comments and help..

I have the tranny out.. wasn't going to do it but felt good this norning.. so two hours later it's sitting on the ground in all it's glory.

<em>Now does anybody know if the input shaft should have some play in it. ( jiggle alitte while still in the trans)</em>

It does, so I wonder then from all the chattering it's been tortured with could the front main bearing be bad now and also the roller bearings. They look good but who knows.

I figure I'm replacing the shaft so I might as well change the bearings if they need it.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Also I found this place to get a shaft. but it looks like they don't have bearing listed.

http://www.drivetrain.com/newprocess435.html

Any other places one could get seperate parts..

Jz

[FredM]

mine have all had a little play, but not much, and they were well used

have you checked you Dodge dealer for bearings
Randys Ring and pinion
Tucson driveline
some parts houses are good for those beariings also

[milestrap]

Sounds good. I figured a little play shouldn't be bad with a tapered bearing. I really don't want to have to drop it again in a few months just to replace bearings.
I should do a complete overhaul.. but no $ and no time. It needs to be driving Saturday.

I'll check in the morning locally. Thanks


"Lack of money is no obstacle. Lack of an idea is an obstacle."

Who said that!

[JimE]

Jim, I see you decided to go for it without chunking the engine out. Those 435s or any 4 spd are a pain in the arse to try and stuff back in with help, let alone by yourself. Can I bench 200#(maybe 10 yrs ago). I have to do that someday to my 64, at my age I figure I have 2 good tranny stuffings left, better make it quick. Jim

[wideblock]

hey milestrap, you gonna make it out to freds on the first??? figured thats why your doing all this truck work.

[powderwagon]

I had decent luck with a shop called mantrans (look for it on the web) when I needed a new input bearing retainer for the 435 in my power wagon. They got me the part I needed (on the second try, at least)and the price was fair. I would guess they could find the parts you are seeking. Good luck getting that tranny back in! I fought and swore at mine for 3 days(those dinky plastic alignment tools provided with my clutch set did not work). Perhaps a real scrapped input shaft would do it. I had to loosen all the bolts holding the press. plate until the disc could slide around a bit. Then I wrestled the shaft in the pilot bore and rotated the enging and trans together to retighten the cover bolts. Be sure to keep plenty of barley pop in reserve.

[edjnsd]

The first time I did the clutch on mine I cussed and
fumed for about a day trying to get that darned thing
in till the little light-blub came on in my head and
said ... "Hey.... If I could just engage the clutch
I wont have to take this thing down and re-align the
clutch plate!!!"

I found a "trick" that works really well for
installing these tranny's. Since the bellhousing is
already boted to the engine before you put the
transmission back in, make sure you hook the clutch
assymbly back up BEFORE you install the tranny.
I use my hyudraulic floor jack to raise the tranny.
The metal pivot on my jack comes out, so I replace it
with a board with a bolt through the center to
support the tranny, and raise it up that way. It
supports it well, and has wheels so I can manuver the
tranny. You can put a tie down strap across the
top of the tranny to support it, but once it is
rasied up inside the tranny hump there is little
chance of it falling. Getting the shaft started is
usually easy, its just that last inch that is "critical" to alignment.
If it hangs up there, I just climb into the cab,
push down on the clutch pedal and slide the tranny
home with one hand from above!

That is my "Solo Method", if you have two people,
you may be able to do away with the whole jack thing,
but engaging the clutch can really do the trick.
Even if you do have it perfectly aligned to start
with, the clutch can sometimes slip. if you are down
to the last inch, the pilot shaft is already through
and will guide the disk on to the splines when the
clutch is depressed and the tranny is sliding in!

Hope this helps, and good luck!

[milestrap]

Hey Jim.. ya got the bug.. Figured if I didn't fix it now the shaft would bust off on the highway somewhere..

About the 1st.. I'd like to come but I'm working a show ( I'm an Audio engineer - 'sound man'. ) If it cancels count me in.

So here we go!!

Last night around 2am I drove her down the block.. Holy crap what a difference ( plus I timed the driveshafts that helped too - thanks to a post here about that sorta thing. I still need new ones and balanced ones at that).

Earlier in the day I was having problems once again trying to get the pilot bearing to slide in. I tried the hot cold thing.. no luck.. Last time I turned the bearing down 2 thousanths using a file, drill press and gauge. That worked but I failed to replace the input shaft at the time.. First time for everything. So of course here I am doing it all over again.

I've talked to everybody about these frickin bearings and always only one part number comes up.. Somethins fishy.. mabe in was a crank from an automatic......... low and behold..
I did one last google search using this;

1967 383 pilot bearing o.d under-size

And found this:



http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/quest1/BUSH_LEAGUE.html
(text from the page incase it disappears.)

<b>Tech Question

Harry Garlinghouse, Oakville, WA, 1965 Dodge station wagon 383

<i>I think I read somewhare that a special pilot bearing could be bought to mate up a standard trans to an auto-trans crankshaft. I think is was made by NAPA. Could you confirm this or provide a alternive solution? Thanks, Harry.

</i>NAPA's no. 615-1033 bushing (undersize O.D.) was especially made to fit the smaller hole in the drtilled-but-not-reamed cranks, but, as far as I can tell, it's been discontinued. This came under the general heading of brain-salad surgery anyway, since the hole in the crank wasn't necessarily uniform, clean, or precision-sized.</em>

The '90s Magnum V-8 pilot bearing presses into the torque converter hub pilot area of the crank, and proveides a better solution - ask for 53009180AB.

Just two quick comments:

If the crank is totally undrilled, it must be drilled (even if using the late-model bearing setup) to provide clearance for the tranny's main drive pinion - or the pinion's shaft must be shortened (cutoff wheel.)

It would be unusual to find a 1965 vinatge crank that was NOT reamed for the stock bushing - in fact, a virtually-new bushing is usually just siting there!
</b>
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////





So know I know what's in my truck a 1967 383 that has a crank thats supossed to sit in front of an automatic..

Finally.. sheesh.. And when you have to tap in it it still needs a little force. So Yes use your old input shaft ( good idea and thanks, I'm not to bright after a few of those barley pops) or the plastic peice of crap we all throw away with the clutch kit.. I used a rented transmission floor jack to square it up and two 3 foot 2x4's from inside the cab to get the tranny about a 1/8' in then I wrench one turn at a time till it was tight. Scarry thinking the bearing would be split.. I'm lucky my rockers sit a good 18" off the ground it makes th truck easier to slide under.

Success>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I started the truck and had to grind it into 1st to get the input shaft that was pressed on the bearing to spin.. It did and all is good.. smooooth Like it should be........... like we all know when we fix em.. It's like a new truck again. Or buy em a nice dress. hehe

Hope this can help others.. I know you all have helped me.. Thanks!!!

[duracell]

good job and hope to see you in wilcox