Sweptline.ORG

I am looking at Moog DS1024 (amazon) as a possible drag link. In fact Im ordering one now and trying it. I will update.

Rare Parts has an exact fit if you need it.

Jim100 wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 25, 2020 5:21 pm

I am looking at Moog DS1024 (amazon) as a possible drag link. In fact Im ordering one now and trying it. I will update.

Jim,
What year W100?

John

Mine is a 70. The rare parts one is adjustable and looks like this moog unit. The rare parts one is 400 + this one 109. Ill check it out and return if no good.

Jim100 wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 26, 2020 5:58 am

Mine is a 70. The rare parts one is adjustable and looks like this moog unit. The rare parts one is 400 + this one 109. Ill check it out and return if no good.

Yup, their pricing is outrageous, but their work is reliable. The sales people I queried were very free with information, including where to go to save a buck. So I recommend them in case someone cares more about hassle than money. At least they have or can do it.

Ha Ha well the ds1024 is gigantic and I could imagine it on a Semi truck! Back it goes.

I know this post is a few months old, but I am nice to this forum, did you ever find the right draglink? I to am looking for a draglink, I am converting my 69 D100 over to 4 wheel drive using a dana 44 out of a 79 W150 and wanting to stick with the factory steering box. With the factory box the 2 wheel drive draglink looks to be about 1 inch too long, it is about 14 inch. I saw on dodgesweptlingtrucks a picture of a used drag link that the site says measures 13 inches but looks like orientation is off.

The rare parts unit maybe? I have heard the tapers are not quite right however. I have stopped thinking on it all for a bit.

Jim100 wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 01, 2021 4:57 pm

The rare parts unit maybe? I have heard the tapers are not quite right however. I have stopped thinking on it all for a bit.

I have a '68 W200 drag link available. I don't see why it would be different, but I just don't know. It was OK when I was driving that truck until the wreck. The impact did hit the driver's side and bent the axle from the impact on the wheel, but I don't think it was taken up by the steering linkage as the tie rod looks and feels fine.

There is also one on ebay right now for a good price: (edited out. Apparently at was for a D truck, not a W - Mark)

The one on ebay there is for D trucks not W.

Jim100 wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 02, 2021 5:42 am

The one on ebay there is for D trucks not W.

Strange, I looked it up under W200. I'll edit the post accordingly. There does appear to be a break between pre '69 drag links and those thereafter. I do not know the distinction, but there are others here whom I am sure can say. Which are you looking for? The one I have available was on a '68 W200.

Wildergarten wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 02, 2021 7:51 am

Strange, I looked it up under W200. I'll edit the post accordingly. There does appear to be a break between pre '69 drag links and those thereafter. I do not know the distinction, but there are others here whom I am sure can say. Which are you looking for? The one I have available was on a '68 W200.

Pre-'69 W100s were basically a short wheelbase W200..... same 8 lug
axles... same basic suspension, etc..

John

I just picked up one of these on ebay. Adjustable drag link for zero to 8" lift. Will report back when it arrives

https://skyjacker.com/shop/drag-link/dl10/

https://www.carid.com/skyjacker/drag-link.html

Not even close

sweatybetty wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 27, 2021 11:48 am

Not even close 20210325_155122 (800x600) (640x480).jpg

Did UPS bend it during shipment?

John

Well after that debacle I found a place that custom makes drag links
https://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/Custom-1 ... /4295/3707

All they needed is the center to center length and the type of tie rod end you want. $233 with ends and lock nuts.
I used Moog ES 2010R & ES2010L which are available if I ever need to replace them.
The only issue I had is the tapered section of the tie rod is bigger than the factory. This was solved by slowly boring the holes out with a 7* tapered reamer.

sweatybetty wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 11, 2021 12:32 pm

This was solved by slowly boring the holes out with a 7* tapered reamer.

Sorry, but that gives me the heebs. Was this a machining operation or did you ream it out by hand?

Wildergarten wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 12, 2021 9:32 am

sweatybetty wrote: ↑

Sun Apr 11, 2021 12:32 pm

This was solved by slowly boring the holes out with a 7* tapered reamer.

Sorry, but that gives me the heebs. Was this a machining operation or did you ream it out by hand?

If ream is correct angle, What does it matter. My 66 W 100 PS Conversion required the arm on knuckle to be reamed. That was 26 years ago. Don't have to take out that much.

dodgeboykim wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 12, 2021 11:53 am

If ream is correct angle, What does it matter.

Runout. The stud being conical and tensioned by a thread is a wedge imparting a lot of force into the surrounding embossment (probably the wrong choice of word). If the reamer wobbles or chatters, the contact won't be even around the circumference, similar to a multipoint cam lobe. That puts all the contacting force into a much smaller area (stres=force/area) radiating from the center of the contact point instead of them being evenly distributed which can then approach the yield point of the material. If the material creeps in response, the force is reduced but the stud won't be in there as tight. If it can move, the impacting surfaces can then work harden and things can therefore break. Breaking steering linkage can be an unpleasant surprise.

You'll note I said "can," as opposed to "will." These are very forgiving machines, and one might then get away with it, but I'd be remiss to notice the risk and not mention the possibility if not eventual likelihood. Hence was my suggestion to work it and retighten, hopefully to distribute that force over a wider area.

Just to clarify. I did the reaming by hand with a tap handle, actually didnt take long at all. I didnt measure the before and after but Id bet I didnt take more than 1/16" of material out.
The real issue was the new end didnt go far enough in for the cotter pin to fit through the castle nut. Thus the need to ream. I probably could have found a shallower castle nut, but this is the better solution in my opinion.
One of the benefits is that I now have full turn stop to stop. Before this I couldnt get all the way to one side.
I just wanted everyone to know there is a source for new drag-links out there.

Ive also email them about tie rods. Will update when I hear back