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I've been struggling to get my 318 pulled from my 1963 W100. So far, I have been able to get all the bolts that collect the bell housing to the engine, I pulled the slave cylinder, the inspection plate on the bottom of the bell housing, and I unbolted (but could not remove) the clutch plate assembly from the flywheel. The problem is the bell housing wraps 180deg + around the flywheel, so whenever I try to drop the engine low enough to clear the bell housing the fly wheel gets bound up. What am I missing? I'd prefer not remove the engine and transmission as one unit - do I have to? This is my first restoration, so the answer may be obvious. Thanks for any help you can provide!

I just did this on a '65 and a '67 W-100. The only way is to unbolt the trans from the clutch housing and pull the engine with the clutch and housing still attached to the engine, because as you have experienced, there's no way to get the clutch out of the way to access the flywheel bolts, at least I don't think so. There was never any doubt in my mind that I was pulling the whole shebang out together to inspect the clutch while swapping engines.
Doug

I NEVER pull the engine w/o the bell and trans connected. Have done it more than a dozen times. I timed it once on my 62 W300. From the moment I opened the hood, I had mounts unbolted, driveline disconnected, rad out, distr out, exhaust disconnected, alt off, carb off, slave line and wiring disconnected, chain installed across manifold, engine lifted, truck winched out of the way and engine sitting on the ground - 45 minutes start to finish BY MYSELF!
Do it the easy way and quit screwing around crawling underneath!

PwrWgnDrvr wrote: ↑

Mon May 11, 2020 10:07 am

I NEVER pull the engine w/o the bell and trans connected. [snip]
Do it the easy way and quit screwing around crawling underneath!

One can pull the engine alone on a 69-70 without pulling the bell. Just did that one.

I got a 318 out one time and left the bell in place but it involved terrible amounts of reaching up into the housing to remove clutch and then flywheel. Turning engine with a big wrench on front. It made no sense to do it that way but I didn't know better!

Thanks for the help everybody. It took me more than 45 minutes, but last night I muscled out the whole thing, trans and all. It is a lot easier with everything on the ground. I'm still trying to figure out how to get the clutch out, but there's a problem for tonight. Any help on that? Thanks!

patrick28 wrote: ↑

Tue May 12, 2020 4:35 am

Thanks for the help everybody. It took me more than 45 minutes, but last night I muscled out the whole thing, trans and all. It is a lot easier with everything on the ground. I'm still trying to figure out how to get the clutch out, but there's a problem for tonight. Any help on that? Thanks!

To get the clutch out, first u must remove the tranny (4 big bolts). Then unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel and it all falls out. Easiest if u rotate the engine to move the pressure plate bolts to the bottom. Clutch actuator arm just pulls straight out of the side - it is held in by a clip that does not have to be removed.

I pull the center hump, pull tranny and pull engine with bell. just a bit less cumbersome than with tranny. but we all have our ways.

PwrWgnDrvr wrote: ↑

Tue May 12, 2020 10:02 am

To get the clutch out, first u must remove the tranny (4 big bolts). Then unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel and it all falls out. Easiest if u rotate the engine to move the pressure plate bolts to the bottom. Clutch actuator arm just pulls straight out of the side - it is held in by a clip that does not have to be removed.

I keep forgetting about the front of that bell housing. I guess it's because I've done so many cars that didn't have that feature.