Outrageous body lift idea- am I anywhere near right?

powerwagoncrazy · Post by **powerwagoncrazy** » Sun Jul 31, 2005 11:46 pm

Ok, so I want to get my '67 W200 up in the air more- It currently has 8" springs under the front and blocks in the rear- I've got the suspension all set up just how I want it. My problem is, I can't get anything bigger than a 35" tire under it with room for articulation (I think because of weight factors- big block and bumper). So, I came up with this plan: in order to get 40's under it (and maybe bigger), I could fab up a 6" body lift. I know I'd have to lengthen hydraulic lines for the clutch and brakes. My plan is to run big truck stuff- I can get a D700 for $100 with perfect sheet metal. My plan is to run the 700's front clip with the big flares and the factory filler panel, and the D700's radiator. For the steering, I would use the 700 column and dash spacer, cutting a hole in the floor so the column would hit the box at the right angle. The big truck's columns use an upside down bracket- the 2 studs that poke through the firewall end up above the column, not below it. I'd use the 700's tranny hump, which is WAY more flat than the stock one- by about 6". For the rear, I know of some junk 700 fenders with good flares, which I'd cut down and french into the bedsides. I'd then cut the back bumper off and build a channel iron one to cover up the 6" gap between the bed and top of old bumper. For the sides, I plan to build rocker guards that double as steps to cover up the frame. So, pretty much, I'd end up with a wicked looking rig, a W700 if you will. Or, I might just use the filler panel and radiator- leave my fenders stock. I'd be going to disc brake dana 60's if I got over a 40" tire, but plan to stay with the 44/60 combo and use it for light mud play. Does this sound feasible to you guys? I thought I'd dig for more opinions before I take it apart. This would make for a total of 14" of lift, and I like the thought of an "old school monster truck." And I'm not afraid of some fabbing, but I don't want to get into frame alterations at this point!!! Thanks for your opinions/input!!

Cageman · Post by **Cageman** » Mon Aug 01, 2005 1:31 am

I have 8 inches of lift and 35 boggers, thats big enough, never had a problem, and the only thing I know about big trucks, is when you do get em stuck, you pretty much need a big tractor to get em out, as the average truck cant get to where you are at.
I dont know, I rode in a truck that had 44's on it and it was kinda scary and not real fun, I can hop in mine and go just about anywhere, and it isnt clumsy at all.
I just used new springs up front and moved the shackles to the back and made a few inches there, and I moved the mounts on the back springs and flipped the shackle too, I still have blocks and a add a leaf in the back, but it rides nice, so I will leave it.

powerwagoncrazy · Post by **powerwagoncrazy** » Tue Aug 02, 2005 12:48 am

Well, the truck does QUITE well with the 35" BFG mud terrains- when I've gotten it stuck in the past, only men with shovels could get it out- Not even our big tractor would pull it. It's not that that I'm concerned about, I plan on fitting it with a Braden LU-2 or similar PTO winch anyways. I've always loved huge trucks, and I love 60's power wagons, not many of which are huge. This is one of those odd ball challenges I want to do, but it has to be using all fabbed or Dodge stuff, I'm a purist to the core, and I plan on sticking to the manual steering with the bigger rolling stock (they're alot easier to handle on the highway with manual...). That's why I threw out the odd body lift stuff, so it'd maintain a stock Dodge truck look, but be HUGE. So, that's kinda my goal, a little show with alotta go! Thanks for your input!!

Hoss · Post by **Hoss** » Wed Aug 03, 2005 7:03 pm

I'd stay with the 35s and go with a more agressive tire like a Ground Hawg or a set of swampers.
40s and larger are more trouble than their worth.
Ken

Post by **POWWAG** » Wed Aug 03, 2005 9:11 pm

I've got a 3" body lift on my 77. The cool thing is I can change the plugs through the gap between the frame and wheel wells. You might want to consider a tilt front end so you don't fall off the ladder trying to reach the dip stick way down in there. The D700s fenders should be enough for 40s. Iâ€™ve got 35s on my 67 (stock height) and the back has clearance but I had to trim the front fenders off flush with the core support. The front needs more clearance thou and a 4â€

powerwagoncrazy · Post by **powerwagoncrazy** » Fri Aug 05, 2005 12:31 am

Oh man Don, don't tempt me with the 49's- my buddy has some on his '71 Furd, a little big for me though- I think I'll stop at 44" boggers, lol. Hoss, I LOVE my 35" BFG's- they're awesome for what I use the truck for, but I've always wanted a big @#% sweptline!!! Plus, I got a smokin' deal on a set of 40" Swampers on wheels, mounted and balanced. I'd go out and get a W300, but they're too spendy, plus all the ones I know of are 6-lug, and getting wheels is a pain. I've got the truck I want right now, a nice, clean, semi-straight and rust free W200 with a great 383, headers, and dual 2.5" exhaust with flowmasters. It's a great rig, just needs to be a little bigger!!! Thanks for all your input- keep it coming!!! Haven't decided on the D700 fenders or the stock ones- I can run either with the filler panel, but I'd have to do paint work with the 700 front end, so I haven't chosen which yet. It's going to be big and freaky when I'm done, All the little Chivvys and Furds will go a runnin' when they see this thing, hahahahaha!!!!

Post by **POWWAG** » Sat Aug 13, 2005 10:39 pm

Hey Rob if your not going to use those D700 fenders I'd be interested in them. Do you have pix? I think they are the real big opening I'm thinking of.

I'm thinking of taking the good stuff off the 77 W100 and making the 67 W200 my race truck. I should campaign a Swept donâ€™t you think?

Don

Website · Post by **wideblock** » Thu Aug 25, 2005 5:43 pm

is this what your talking about?? this truck used 2 frames, stacked one on top of the other to get it up high enough for 44's. 18 inches of totall lift if memory serves. to me, still needs another 3 or 4 inchs to clear properly, or the big fenders like you are talking about. doing it this way, your engine, radiator, etc stays up on the top frame where its easy to reach, and the suspension stays on the bottom frame. just a couple custom drive shafts and your fabrication worries are over. just an idea i thought was pretty sharp, and worth sharing with you.

powerwagoncrazy · Post by **powerwagoncrazy** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 12:30 am

this is getting more elaborate and ingenious the longer I think over everyone's input.... The truck won't come apart for a little while- as a little /6 4spd SWB d100 popped up in front of me for $100 a couple weeks ago- I'm currently doing some finishing touches (i.e. rattlecan) to get it up to my standards for a daily driver, but after 15 years of sitting in the brush, the brakes work, and the little 6 purrs- even when it was running on the old gas it still got 18 mpg... it's a keeper, that's for damn sure.... thanks for the input!!! I'm going to eyeball a few things tomorrow and see what I'd need to do to get the second frame on it. Do you know which frame he's running his t-case on? Thanks a bunch guys!! Rob Keady

digdoug · Post by **digdoug** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 6:24 pm

All of the other stacked frame trucks I've seen have all the goodies in the bottom frame,and most cut off the top frame in front of the cab for engine access.

RussRoth · Post by **RussRoth** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 6:33 pm

Hey Rob,

You will have to carry a 6 foot step ladder to get in.

Website · Post by **wideblock** » Thu Sep 01, 2005 7:04 pm

if memory serves me, everything is on the top frame. the bottom of the frame was shaved of brackets and such, welded to the lower frame where the axles are bolted on, and the driveshafts were made to fit. but, going by the picture, it might be done the way digdoug suggested, i see a lot of headder sticking out, but that could be due to the lack of inner fenders as well. if i were to do it. i would unbolt the axles, and leave the rest of the drivetrain in the upper frame. this keeps shifters, wireing harness's, motor, linkages and all the rest of the stuff in place where they belong. then bolt the axles to the lower frame and make driveshafts to take up the extra length. just seems to make the most sence to me to do it this way.

OregonDodgeboy · Post by **OregonDodgeboy** » Thu Oct 27, 2005 11:06 pm

I realize this post is kinda old, but I just read it for the first time and had a couple of ideas to suggest:

1.) To get the lift you want, make new mounting brackets for the leaves like they did with the early monster trucks. They used the Rockwell axles and springs from a 6x6. The made slightly triangular boxes that came down to mount the 6x6 springs to. Make all the lift you want that way.

2.) Use the W700 to make this monster, and not mess up your other truck. (What happens when the fun wears off? It's lots of work to return it to it's current and more functional level, don't ya think?)

Anyway, to continue... I'd use either some F-350 coils or some air bags from an old bus or something. Some big heim joints and some tubing. Make front and rear four-bar axles with the bags. It would be cool to deflate them to lower it to make getting into/out of it easier. Or to gain some articulation to get over something.

Think of the flex you'd get,.. man,............. the FLEX!!!!

Either way it sounds way cool and I can hardly wait to see how it turns out.

Rukus · Post by **Rukus** » Wed Nov 02, 2005 4:26 pm

If yer talking about frenching fenders, why not just cut the fenders out and weld on a new fender rim to get a stock-looking fender which takes a bigger tire? I guess that would sort of be like the 700's fenders... You could weld in larger bed wheelwells too. Kind of like this rig...

http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/ ... ampfox.jpg

A dana 44 will NOT run 40" tires for long... and I'd start to wonder about that older 60 as well. Personally, I'm more into slow-speed articulation and high-speed performance than size for the sake of size. I've never seen a 40+" truck that drove or handled well, but lots of mid 30 inchers that were awesome.

If you want a monster truck, get a W500, or at least a W300

ruk

66patrick · Post by **66patrick** » Wed Nov 02, 2005 6:57 pm

The look would be amazing with the D700 sheetmetal up front!!! That would make the truck much more proportionally right than the green truck above, though that one is sweet! Sounds like you have a decent plan in mind for your truck - why not!!!

wide65 · Post by **wide65** » Wed Nov 02, 2005 11:31 pm

From a 4-wheeling standpoint I'd stay away fro the body lift... I have seen too many bad things happen while out wheeling... Why are you going with such large tires? I'd say stay where you are... If you are set on the large tires build custom fenders..... I am all about staying as low as possible overall... I believe the center of gravity is like a safety net, I am planning on makeing my 65 a 4x4 but i am going to stop at 35" tires..... If i feel the need to go larger i will build a custom bed and fenders...