whole lot of shakin going on

[irontwist]

Have a lot of vibration on the right front side of the 66 w-200, looked at the service manual which tells me it is desirable to disassemble and inspect all parts in steering knuckle. What is the most likely cause of the vibration, the bushing or the cross and roller bushings. Look's like a straight forward repair. Thanks

[digdoug]

If you jack that wheel up and rock it in and out,you may find that the top tapered trunnion bearing has failed (if you have the small knuckles). If that isn't it rock the wheel right to left and check the tie rod end for play. Now spin the wheel and look carefully for bulges in the tire. Also look for places where a wheel weight may have been recently peeled from the wheel.

If the u joint cross is bad (it will likely be, if you have drive flanges) it won't cause vibration or shaking in MOST cases,just noise ,until something breaks.

The biggest cause of failure in these closed knuckle axles is NO LUBE in the knuckle. New wiper seals and John Deere Corn Head Grease (or some other O or OO thickness grease) works best.

[irontwist]

jacked up the rt. front and I do have top and bottom play, I'll check out that upper bronze cone bearing and cup. While I have it apart I'll check out the other parts. I already bought the felt and retainer's I knew they needed replacing. Also see a oil seal leak at differential yoke. Thanks for the help.

[irontwist]

I disassembled the steering knuckle assembly on my titled 67 w-200. In a earlier post it mentioned that the upper bearing (bronze cone) and upper bearing cup could be suspect as a cause for my wheel play, that is the case.
The previous owner ground down the upper bearing cap stud to install a bearing like the one for the lower bearing cap instead of the bronze cone as shown in Fig. 28-44F page 2-16 in Service manual serial #xxx-1548000. The upper bearing cap and upper bearing (bronze cone) and .060 shim pack is what I need.
I noticed that the upper and lower bearing caps are cast differently which leads me to believe that the stud on the upper one is larger in diameter; hence the grinding to install the cone roller bearing on the top.
My Dayna 44F front axle I think is the 3000#, not the optional 3500#. Where can I get these parts NOS if possible. Thanks much for the help.
I've tried to pull a picture from the cloud taken from the smart phone with no success, would also like to set up a profile, will try again soon. For that matter I want to get it dirty!

[dodgeboykim]

You can get the parts from Vintage Power Wagon or any GOOD 4 x 4 parts supplier. Not your local Jimmys Auto parts.

[irontwist]

Thank you for the info. Went to 3 parts stores in town with no luck. Looking at the 2011-2012 Vintage Power Wagon catalog I see a exploded typical parts view. I will call them on Tuesday and 4-wheel parts supply. Tried downsizing picture of my truck to post by cropping, putting in zip folder, no go. I'll keep trying. Have a good weekend.

[RussRoth]

I don't know if Pendleton has a Six States so Portland may be the closest. They had every needed part for mine and knew exactly what it was when I did mine about 15 years ago.

[RussRoth]

I received your PM but can't respond. Says Some users couldn’t be added as they have disabled private message receipt.

[digdoug]

http://www.quad4x4.com/Dodge44front8bol ... -1971.html

[irontwist]

Thank you for the leads on the parts I need. The only confusing part is the install change as far as grinding down the stud on the upper bearing cap to allow for the tapered roller bearing placement.
If the two bearing are the same?, grinding the stud is the only solution. I only had .038 of shims total on upper and lower caps. According to the FSM I need .060 without deviation maybe that accounts for wheel play. I do not comprehend the why they would change from the original upper bearing (bronze cone) to the tapered roller bearing? Originally both existed so is the tapered rolling bearing preferred over the bronze cone bearing?