Inverted T /cross over steering
Posted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 6:26 pm
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=30971&p=229830#p229830
This is my original post from when I replaced my Cummins springs with D200 front springs.
This is a great post on the same style power steering I have in my truck.
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=20020#p140495
So this is what has been going on after I installed the D200 springs: Remember I have above mentioned PS and a 1992 Dana 60.
I love the ride, but after front end alignment and adding a 2.5" king pin steering arm block to level my drag link, to my push pull steering I still have dump steer. It's the worst on county highways and bridge lips, or when pulling trailers over 4000 lbs.
With the Cummins springs, they didn't move so the truck drove as straight as an arrow but beat me to death doing it. No really, it was Crappy!
I like the ride way to much, so fixing the steering is the way to go rather than firm up the ride.
I researched Cross over steering like others have used but my truck would need a lot more lift to clear drag link and the 8 quart Big block front sump oil pan. Or a rear sump oil pan, pick up and dip stick ($200) plus the cross over stuff ($300 plus).
So I stumbled on to Inverted T - style cross over. This is the fix for my application and thought I would share. The total cost is about $150. less than half of other style cross over steering systems.
While this isn't a 100% cross over it took me from a 14" drag link to a 30" to the other side. I got the idea from the WFO web site. http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/Inverted- ... /4295/4486 My cost at Napa was about $25 per end for three ends. $37 for (4) (2left and 2 right) Weld in ends from Black Birds Trucks in Spokane and $35 for DOM tubing at CDA metals.
Most parts are from Napa with the exception of the 1" Id DOM tubing and the Weld in Ends for the Tubing. I hate to say this but they are Chevy parts.
88' ish chevy 4x4 truck left tied rod end with hole for stabilizer bar, left and right hand drag link ends. I re used my right side tie rod end (on the left side) because it was in great shape.
So this chevy stuff is the same size 7/8 (18 tread) as Dodge used. So no need to drill or re taper holes because chevy and Dodge also used the same taper for several years.
You take the a left side tie rod end with the hole and ream/taper for a drag link end. I had to taper from the back side to keep my drag link as straight as possible. You install on the right side and use your right side end on the left. Measure and build your new tie rod adjusting sleeve. I re clocked my pitman arm 90 degrees. For the drag link, I used the long side on the pitman arm, seemed to fit better like that. again measure and build your new drag link.
I feel a very slight wiggle when the right side hits a big pot hole or intersection hump. other than that it is great. I'm also thinking about installing a rear sump oil pan and taking the bend out of the drag link.
I think the only thing my truck needs now is a front sway bar.
Excuse all the grease the cordless grease gun gets away from me.... lol The old tie rod ends were just for mock up purposes only. I picked them up with adjusting sleeve from Pull N Save only for mock up. Parts from Pull N save was the best $20 I've spent in a long time.
This is my original post from when I replaced my Cummins springs with D200 front springs.
This is a great post on the same style power steering I have in my truck.
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=20020#p140495
So this is what has been going on after I installed the D200 springs: Remember I have above mentioned PS and a 1992 Dana 60.
I love the ride, but after front end alignment and adding a 2.5" king pin steering arm block to level my drag link, to my push pull steering I still have dump steer. It's the worst on county highways and bridge lips, or when pulling trailers over 4000 lbs.
With the Cummins springs, they didn't move so the truck drove as straight as an arrow but beat me to death doing it. No really, it was Crappy!
I like the ride way to much, so fixing the steering is the way to go rather than firm up the ride.
I researched Cross over steering like others have used but my truck would need a lot more lift to clear drag link and the 8 quart Big block front sump oil pan. Or a rear sump oil pan, pick up and dip stick ($200) plus the cross over stuff ($300 plus).
So I stumbled on to Inverted T - style cross over. This is the fix for my application and thought I would share. The total cost is about $150. less than half of other style cross over steering systems.
While this isn't a 100% cross over it took me from a 14" drag link to a 30" to the other side. I got the idea from the WFO web site. http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/Inverted- ... /4295/4486 My cost at Napa was about $25 per end for three ends. $37 for (4) (2left and 2 right) Weld in ends from Black Birds Trucks in Spokane and $35 for DOM tubing at CDA metals.
Most parts are from Napa with the exception of the 1" Id DOM tubing and the Weld in Ends for the Tubing. I hate to say this but they are Chevy parts.
88' ish chevy 4x4 truck left tied rod end with hole for stabilizer bar, left and right hand drag link ends. I re used my right side tie rod end (on the left side) because it was in great shape.
So this chevy stuff is the same size 7/8 (18 tread) as Dodge used. So no need to drill or re taper holes because chevy and Dodge also used the same taper for several years.
You take the a left side tie rod end with the hole and ream/taper for a drag link end. I had to taper from the back side to keep my drag link as straight as possible. You install on the right side and use your right side end on the left. Measure and build your new tie rod adjusting sleeve. I re clocked my pitman arm 90 degrees. For the drag link, I used the long side on the pitman arm, seemed to fit better like that. again measure and build your new drag link.
I feel a very slight wiggle when the right side hits a big pot hole or intersection hump. other than that it is great. I'm also thinking about installing a rear sump oil pan and taking the bend out of the drag link.
I think the only thing my truck needs now is a front sway bar.
Excuse all the grease the cordless grease gun gets away from me.... lol The old tie rod ends were just for mock up purposes only. I picked them up with adjusting sleeve from Pull N Save only for mock up. Parts from Pull N save was the best $20 I've spent in a long time.