Front D200 springs in a W200

[jimmy]

Well as some recall from my build I installed 92' Cummins springs with D60 front axle.
I tinker with stuff until its just the way I want it, Over the past several years I have tried newer 1/2 ton fronts springs trying to soften the ride.
1/2 ton springs were not enuf and were way to bouncy. I removed a leaf from the cummins springs and that sofened the ride a little. So I've been driving it that way for about a year 1/2 now.

I've heard some talking about the greater arch on D200 springs so I thought I would give that a shot. The Cummins springs are pretty flat in and out of the truck, compaired to the D200 springs, the D200 springs have about a 5 inch arch. I was hoping for a slight lift about 1 inch (just for stance reason). Well, I had to change all the spring eye bushings but I got them in. The hight is better it gave me 1.5 inches more than the Cummins springs. most of the arch settles out with weight of the truck on them.

Shakles - I was using the cummins shakles with the cummins springs (because the cummins spring eye is huge compaired to non cummins springs), they are about 1.5 inches longer than the sweptline shackle. I used the D200 shackles for the D200 springs.

I'll report back after some miles and let everopne know if they ride better. Ride is the main reason for the change. The hight is good too. One of the things I'm a little worried about is towing/sway. I don't run sway bars and always felt the Cummins springs were helping with trailers.

[ozzie]

I am going to do the same swap on my W200, with springs off a D200. did you have any trouble with the stock flexable brake lines being too short with the lift that you got? my truck has a 318 in it, so I am a little worried I will have to get longer lines. Ozzie.

[jimmy]

Ozzie- I have long chevy front brake lines cause of how I adapted the 92' cummins front axle. Sorry couldn't help you out.

Also the lift is more like 2" above what I had with thw cummins springs. I'll post a picture.

I REALLY like how the trucks rides so far, the only thing is I have some strange steering. A little bump steer and a little something I can't put my finger on.
Maybe I should turn the springs around??? I installed them the same way the cummins were wich is the opposite of the factory springs.
What I mean is the springs eyes on the Cummins are like this, The front eye is on top of the spring and the rear is below the spring. The factory 69' springs are front is below the spring and the rear is on top of the spring. Maybe it doesn't have anything to do with it??? It seems that the axle caster could be off?

Suggestions guy's?

[crusty]

First, pictures! Second, I am guessing that your reduced your caster since you mentioned longer shackles, and I think yours are still up front. The longer shackle would rotate the axle down in front and reduce the caster. You can either put in shorter shackles or install wedges to bring it back.

[jimmy]

I'm going to look for a differant pitman arm first, my drag link is angled now. I need a pitman arm with about a 1.5- 2 inch drop.
I really, really like the ride. One more thing is I have to make sure it fits in my garage. I was pretty close before.

Thanks Crusty, I think your right. If it fits in the garage and fix the drag link (I think that is causing the bump steer) I'll try wedges.

[crusty]

Not related, but you still going to Hot August Nights in Lewiston?

[jimmy]

Not going to make it this year, like usual to much going on. Sorry.

[crusty]

That's too bad. I am excited to finally get to go. This past weekend was the show in Orofino. I completely forgot and missed it.

[jimmy]

Just got around to leveling the truck. I still love the front springs. The ride is very nice. I hated to set the truck taller but it turns out it looks great. I was scared my tires would look to small adn the truck wouldn't fit in my garage, turns out both are ok. I leveled with 2-5/8" tappered blocks. I found them used at Les Shwab tires. They sold them to me for $10/pair. I had Six states 4x4 make new u-bolts. One last thing, D 200 springs actually gave me about 2"taller than the Cummins springs. I originally thought it was 1.5" but have remeasured. Next project is fixxing the roof cause my filler cracked. After that Engine up grade (closed chambered heads,Comp cam R.V. style, and a better intake). I can't wait for the engine up grade but am dreeding the paint/body work.

[crusty]

Looks perfect. Which actual springs did you use? Fronts, or rears up front?

[jimmy]

Oh my bad, I used the front springs from a 70' D200 Camper Special that had a 383.
I replaced the spring eye bushings. I also used the front shackles from the same truck.

Did you make it to Lewiston? I just finished repainting the top of my truck. What a project! Now time for engine up grade.

[crusty]

I did! My wife has all the pics so I haven't gotten them to upload. Lots of really nice cars and trucks, but overall, the mopars are what caught my eye. Had several gorgeous muscle cars. In fact, the car on the shirt this year was a mopar. It was a really good time. Hopefully we can catch up next year.

On your roof, did you have cracking at the rear cab seam? I have been looking at how to make that look better.

[jimmy]

My leaded roof seam on top was full of Cancer and rot. So when I stripped the truck and painted several years ago I cut the top open from side to side and replace the metal. The leaded seam pushs up because of cancer under it. Dodge overlaped the long front roof over the back window roof. Mosture rolls back over the years and sits in the overlap like a cup. I didn't under stand what happend until I cut the top open to replace the cancer. I can send you pictures if you want.
I filled probably thicker than I should have. I'm not sure what caused the cracks may have been several things ( I started seeing crack just months after driving it). So this time I cleaned the welded serfaces better, insured my hard wood stringers I installed for the roof support/ headliner weren't to tight, and scored the new metal better. Also this may sound crazy but I think the front spings were to stiff. My cab used to crack and mone and pop over ruff or uneven surfaces. The frame was moving (twisting the cab) and the spring werent. The new spring move nicely and the cab doesn't make all the noise.

Also before I was told to prime the metal, then use body filler, then reprime then paint & Clear.
This time I was told filler on bare metal, then prime, then paint & Clear.

I guess filler etches and sticks to bare metal better than primer????
Also this time I didn't use PPG products. They are VERY expencive.
I'm trying Valspar Base Coat and Wanda Clear coat. We'll see how it does.

[crusty]

I will have to clean mine up and look. I haven't got that far, but when I do, my plan is to put on a white roof coating that will help with insulation and mimic the look of a vinyl top. We'll see how it goes...

I was told to put filler on bare metal, then prime and paint. Supposedly it can't stick to primer as well and is more likely to pop off in a chunk. So far, this sequence has worked for me. Now if I could just get good with making filler look smooth, I would be ok

[jimmy]

I hate body work! My best friend when I'm doing body work is filler/ high build primer! Really helps in smoothing areas were filler stops and metal begins and is sands really easy. Or just minor scratches and stuff that you don't want to spend a bunch of time filling or sanding on.

[crusty]

I was out tinkering this afternoon, and my rear cab seam (across the top) is actually filled with lead. Was yours originally that way?

[jimmy]

Yes, my lead was being pushed upward because of the cancer under it.

[crusty]

Got any good pics of it originally? Mine just looks like a bad seam job.

[jimmy]

http://jims69dodgeproject.blogspot.com/
This is my build. Feel free to check out the page. my brother built the page while I was working on the truck. The sections on the right side of the page have pictures of most of the build. He stopped maintaning the page before I was finished with the build. He did a great job.
If you need indepth pictures I can email them. I originally though the seam was poor Dodge quality until I soda blasted. The Crewcab I bought from Digdoug this summer had a seal that was lifting also. It was in far better shape than mine was thou.

[jimmy]

PM me your email address and I'll find the pictures prior to me cutting the seal out. It just looked like a crappy seam, until I found the cancer.
I don't see and of the prior pictures in the blog.