need opinions from the 4x4 gurus
- wideblock
- Founding Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- City: las cruces nm
- State: NM
- Location: Las Cruces, New Mexico
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need opinions from the 4x4 gurus
i have been trying to figure out a easy way to lift a 2wd. there have been many posts in the past on it, and id like to make a pre runner style swept myself. so, this has stuck in my head a bit. anyway, i think i got it all figured out. i only want to go up 3 inches so i can run 35's the rigth way. dont want a full on 4x4 conversion, its just extra parts to break id never use. so in the rear, the 3 inch lift blocks are the obvious answer, wondering if 3 inches is in need of any drive line mods, or if the stock stuff will stretch enough to accomodate the lift?
as far as the front goes, i have full acces to a cnc mill and a guy to run it, so fabbing a strong billet aluminum part is not a prob. my idea is simple, make front lift blocks! not between the axle and springs, im not that dence! but rather to but a block between the shackle brakets and the frame, thus raising the whole axle/spring assembly. im thinking of cutting out the rivets that hold the shackle bracket to the frame bracket in the rear and to the frame itself in the front. put in a 3 inch solid billet block, and bolting the whole thing back toagther. this is the same basic idea as a body lift, but between the spring brackets and the frame rather then between the body and frame. i cant see where this would touch my steering geometry as the whole unit would just be moved down. the front end wouldnt change other then the space away from the frame. i would use grade 8 bolts, higher if they are to be found. and i would use a high grade billet aluminum that has been hard anodized for strength. so, am i over looking any thing? what problems do you guys think i might run into? and, if i do this, what steering arm should i use for a 3 inch lift? if this turns out to be a viable idea, the program for the cnc will be mine, and additional blocks could be made very simply for those who would like to follow in my foot steps. all i would need then is the tires, a brush gaurd, a double single roll bar with spare tire mount, and a big skid plate to get the look right. plus, if in the future i want to bring her back down to ground level, i just remove the blocks, and bolt it back toagther.
as far as the front goes, i have full acces to a cnc mill and a guy to run it, so fabbing a strong billet aluminum part is not a prob. my idea is simple, make front lift blocks! not between the axle and springs, im not that dence! but rather to but a block between the shackle brakets and the frame, thus raising the whole axle/spring assembly. im thinking of cutting out the rivets that hold the shackle bracket to the frame bracket in the rear and to the frame itself in the front. put in a 3 inch solid billet block, and bolting the whole thing back toagther. this is the same basic idea as a body lift, but between the spring brackets and the frame rather then between the body and frame. i cant see where this would touch my steering geometry as the whole unit would just be moved down. the front end wouldnt change other then the space away from the frame. i would use grade 8 bolts, higher if they are to be found. and i would use a high grade billet aluminum that has been hard anodized for strength. so, am i over looking any thing? what problems do you guys think i might run into? and, if i do this, what steering arm should i use for a 3 inch lift? if this turns out to be a viable idea, the program for the cnc will be mine, and additional blocks could be made very simply for those who would like to follow in my foot steps. all i would need then is the tires, a brush gaurd, a double single roll bar with spare tire mount, and a big skid plate to get the look right. plus, if in the future i want to bring her back down to ground level, i just remove the blocks, and bolt it back toagther.
Trey
1965 CSS Utiline.
ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100
"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"
1965 CSS Utiline.
ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100
"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"
- POWWAG
- Founding Member
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- City: Maple Valley
- State: WA
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Most 4X4s will take 4" of lift without the need for longer brake lines, drag link, or drive line changes. In your application the drag link will probably need modification. Don't forget longer shocks.
Lowering the spring perches is an excellent idea. You get a softer ride and less spring wrap in the back. Do both axles for sure.
Don't for any reason run lift blocks in the front! I've heard stories about blocks coming out while cornering, but the main reason is under hard braking all your caster goes away and its into oncoming traffic/the ditch with you.
Grade 8 fastners are probably a good choice. Higher grades might shear easier with side loading as they are more brittle. Best to talk to the bolt guy you are buying from.
Don
Lowering the spring perches is an excellent idea. You get a softer ride and less spring wrap in the back. Do both axles for sure.
Don't for any reason run lift blocks in the front! I've heard stories about blocks coming out while cornering, but the main reason is under hard braking all your caster goes away and its into oncoming traffic/the ditch with you.
Grade 8 fastners are probably a good choice. Higher grades might shear easier with side loading as they are more brittle. Best to talk to the bolt guy you are buying from.
Don
You can put add-a-leafs in, and not have to worry about lift blocks and any machine work. They don't cost that much and JC Whitney, Rough Country, Super Lift and a host of other people sell them.
You'll spend a lot less and it takes about 2 hours to install them.
Don't forget to get a front end alignment when your done.
You may also need to replace your shocks with a longer set.
Good luck,
Ken
You'll spend a lot less and it takes about 2 hours to install them.
Don't forget to get a front end alignment when your done.
You may also need to replace your shocks with a longer set.
Good luck,
Ken
68 W300 "Big John"
64 Belvedere 426 wedge 4 speed
64 Belvedere 426 wedge 4 speed
- wideblock
- Founding Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- City: las cruces nm
- State: NM
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man, the truck rides rough enough without more springs up there!!
russ, no blocks on the front in any of my rides, thus the lifting of the spring perches.
russ, no blocks on the front in any of my rides, thus the lifting of the spring perches.
Trey
1965 CSS Utiline.
ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100
"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"
1965 CSS Utiline.
ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100
"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"
- powerwagoncrazy
- Sweptline.ORG Member
- Posts: 615
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- City: Hubbard, OR
- State: OR
- Location: Hubbard, OR
3" and 35's are going to be a close shave- for a real prerunner look, it'd be 3" ans 33's, as prerunners usually have quite a bit of tire to fender clearance for jumps and turns in the desert. I'd say go a bit higher for the 35's, maybe 4 or 5"? 33's do look pretty good on a lifted truck- check out my old '66 crew cab- it had like 3 or 4" of lift and 33's, granted it was a 4x4, but you get the idea. So how about the reverse lights- they're boxed up and ready!!
Last edited by powerwagoncrazy on Sat Mar 16, 2013 5:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Trey, when I converted my truck to a 4X4 I used 4 inch blocks on the rear, and I had to have a new emergency brake cable made for the left side. The right side is fine. During the conversion I put in the axles first and raised it while it still had the original engine and transmission. The driveshaft wasn't long enough with the four inch blocks so I think you will be on the border line with three inch blocks. Mine is a short bed so the lift might affect mine more due to shorter driveshaft.
1969 Adventurer W100
Just buy the 4X4 that you looked at a put the running gear under you crew
that will lift you some and allow you to run 33" tires
then you can search for 3.54s for the front also
that will lift you some and allow you to run 33" tires
then you can search for 3.54s for the front also
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- wideblock
- Founding Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- City: las cruces nm
- State: NM
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man rob, i forgot all about the reverse lights. can it wait a couple weeks, i got all my money tyed up for xmas for the kids right now?
Trey
1965 CSS Utiline.
ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100
"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"
1965 CSS Utiline.
ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100
"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"
- powerwagoncrazy
- Sweptline.ORG Member
- Posts: 615
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- City: Hubbard, OR
- State: OR
- Location: Hubbard, OR