Hello All,
I have the chance to buy a 68' D-300 that's an old stock truck. I don't need the 6 ft sides but do need ideas for a new bed. So if you have pics of cool D-300's please help me. If I can't find a good reason the wife will fight me about this purchase. And before you say it. I go by the slogan "Happy Spouse, Happy House". I would like to see a camper version. I may buy it just to get the 383 and running gear out of it.
Hello All,
I have the chance to buy a 68' D-300 that's an old stock truck. I don't need the 6 ft sides but do need ideas for a new bed. So if you have pics of cool D-300's please help me. If I can't find a good reason the wife will fight me about this purchase. And before you say it. I go by the slogan "Happy Spouse, Happy House". I would like to see a camper version. I may buy it just to get the 383 and running gear out of it.20201203_132627.jpg
Thanks,
Jimharold.
Tell her the Xmas gifts you've purchased for her are so numerous and heavy that
you need this truck to get them home.
If she doesn't agree.... just buy it anyway. Live by the slogan "Happy Man..... the new master plan"
The BB bell housing, flywheel, starter and inspection cover are worth their weight
in gold. If the 383 is in decent condition too..... all the better.
Just to confuse matters more. The VIN tag is gone and looks like it has been for a long time. Is the VIN someplace other on the truck? The past owners live off grid and I don't know their record keeping skills. And the truck does have a manual trans. Apparently the starter stuck and that is why it was left for years. That should be easy to fix just isolate piece by piece. I have a 68' D100 so the wire tracing will be easy, also FSM for it.
So big issue is finding a VIN. Any help and ideas are welcome.
There is really no need for the vin. What little it actually has is readily determined simply by looking at the truck.....What u see is what u get Olly!
The starter can be a huge hassle to get the correct one. But since u have a core, it is easy to buy a small block starter and swap the nose cones, then return the old core with the new small block nose cone on it.
U can look for the vin on the frame above the right front wheel, but it won't have any of the data, just the vin #.
Does the owner have a title, last registration tag or does it have a lic plate? All of those will have the vin included, unless its been unregistered so long the dmv has deleted the records.
Commonly (but not always!) found on stamped into the outside of the frame on the passenger's side just behind the shock. Characters are about a half inch tall.
'69 W200 (thumbnail)
'68 W200 (RIP)
'68 W200 383 NP435 3.53
'67 W200 383 NP435 4.10 w overload springs, Dana 60, PTO winch & flatbed dump, racks, crane, c-air (Max)
Mark Vande Pol
Wildergarten.org
Owner called me and the Title is on hand. So now it all comes down to is "buy or not".
Still need ideas on transforming this into something cool. Leaning towards flatbed with 2 foot removable sides. This would be cheaper than buying a trailer able to carry rocks and dirt. And my little D100 can only tow so much.
Question: is the cabs of D100 to D300 the same? Do windshields match?
Owner called me and the Title is on hand. So now it all comes down to is "buy or not".
Still need ideas on transforming this into something cool. Leaning towards flatbed with 2 foot removable sides. This would be cheaper than buying a trailer able to carry rocks and dirt. And my little D100 can only tow so much.
Question: is the cabs of D100 to D300 the same? Do windshields match?
Same windshield. Cabs are different for 300 Series and up. The floors are different
but the general cab design/dimensions are the same as the 100/200 cabs.
did you buy it? I have bought a few like that and just remove the big sides and made some short ones out of 2 x 10s or 2 x 12s and on one modified the front panel shorter and cut hole for rear visibility.
Went back last night and found the wheels are 16" in the 3 ring style. If that is indeed what I see here. Never worked on those before. And can't find a video on YouTube on how to do it. Other than a special maul like hammer and huge tire irons could I change these at home. They would clean up nice and look great repainted. After making a cage of some type. Safety first. Truck can wait a few months so I have time to plan.
Or has a replacement wheel been found yet that doesn't cost more than the truck did in the first place?
That's a 2 piece split rim wheel, not 3. It requires a bead breaker hammer and tire irons (prybar of some sort will also work). Safe assembly can be done by wrapping chains around the tire, thru the rim slots. They can take massive effort to get apart if the tire rubber is rust vulcanized to the rim. There are numerous styles of split rims, both 2 and 3 piece. Some are extremely difficult and more dangerous than others. The 3 piece are usually easier and safer. I've done hundreds of them and also do all the modern tire changes and flat repairs with the same tools, in my driveway on the ground. To start, you remove the valve stem core to let ALL air out. Air pressure is what holds the pieces together during use. Split rim work is not a DIY, learn as you go process. More likely its a die as you go if you are untrained.
You may be able to safely deflate & dismount one of these rascals, but I would definitely let a pro with the proper equipment mount the new flaps/tubes/tires & inflate.
Hello Jim: I have a 63 D-300 and am planning to build my own flatbed out of Locust (frame rails, cross-members, and decking) - it's available in my area and at a good cost. I also have most of the prior DIY angle iron brackets. I will probably do this in the next 4-6 weeks and will post pictures. I'm also adding angle iron next to the cross-members as I will add side rails and maybe even a few small side mounted 'old school' looking tool boxes.
