1969 W200 Power Wagon

[Specwar762]

Going to look at a Power Wagon my uncle wants to give me for free as a project.

1969 Dodge W200 Power Wagon
Utiline bed
225 Slant 6
4spd Manual (NP435?)
US Army property tag on glove box

The bad: It’s been in Alaska, the California desert, Colorado, and finally north Texas. It has been sitting in his back yard since 1992.

Since I’m getting it for free, and have realistic expectations about how it will drive, I’m fine with putting up to $2-3000 in it over a years time in parts to get it running safely. I don’t care too much about aesthetics, but I want it to be safe. I can buy parts wholesale and can do 99% of the mechanical repairs it will need myself.

Is this a rare truck that’s obviously worth some sort of preservation and restoration? Or a run of the mill Dodge pickup?

Here are pictures taken of the truck back in 1986. I’m sure it doesn’t look quite so good anymore. Hopefully I’ll get to go see it in person in 2 weeks.

[Danpd69]

I think all the sweptlines and utilines (which is what your uncle has) are worth saving, minus the trucks that are truly rusted beyond repair. You definitely don't see as many utilines running around as the sweptlines, so that is definitely cool.

You're not going to win any races, the slant six was pretty low geared to get that much truck moving under its own power. Are you planning on fixing it up and keeping it in the family long term? Definitely worth the investment. If you're looking at it to fix and flip, depending on its condition you probably won't make a lot of profit off it.

Get it running and safe, and have fun putzing around!

[Specwar762]

I think all the sweptlines and utilines (which is what your uncle has) are worth saving, minus the trucks that are truly rusted beyond repair. You definitely don't see as many utilines running around as the sweptlines, so that is definitely cool.

You're not going to win any races, the slant six was pretty low geared to get that much truck moving under its own power. Are you planning on fixing it up and keeping it in the family long term? Definitely worth the investment. If you're looking at it to fix and flip, depending on its condition you probably won't make a lot of profit off it.

Get it running and safe, and have fun putzing around!

I definitely plan on fixing it up to keep in the family as long as possible. My uncle said it has some rusted through spots in the bottom of the doors and rocker panels, but I won't know the extent of it for sure until I go see it in person. Also, I'm perfectly fine with it not being fast. This isn't necessarily the kind of vehicle that needs to be fast to feel cool driving, and look cool going down the street. I'd like to keep it as original as possible assuming parts availability isn't a big issue. I'd like to stop the rust from spreading, get it back running and driving safely, and later on down the road address some of the cosmetic issues.

It also has split rims, but my Uncle said he has a set of solid wheels for it too. I've heard people say split rims are no big deal if you're cautious and know what you're doing, but it seems like a liability I don't need.

[Hobcobble]

Welcome. Free is a good starting point.
If it isn't rusted into a heap and is pretty much all complete and original, I'd
say go for it. Fix it up and enjoy it. As far as rarity.... Its a 50 year old
truck that they don't make anymore..... and every time a Sweptline gets
scrapped/crushed.... it makes them all just a tad bit more scarce. These
trucks are pretty easy to work on too.... especially if you're already
mechanically inclined. Get some pics of it in its current state.

John

[Specwar762]

Welcome. Free is a good starting point.
If it isn't rusted into a heap and is pretty much all complete and original, I'd
say go for it. Fix it up and enjoy it. As far as rarity.... Its a 50 year old
truck that they don't make anymore..... and every time a Sweptline gets
scrapped/crushed.... it makes them all just a tad bit more scarce. These
trucks are pretty easy to work on too.... especially if you're already
mechanically inclined. Get some pics of it in its current state.

John

I'll definitely grab pictures when I see it. Should be going out there on the 12th to take a peek. I'm hoping it's not in too bad of shape.

I'd say the only things I wouldn't feel comfortable doing on the truck myself would be tearing the transmission or transfer case down (I just don't have the tools or experience), setting up differential gears, or doing welding/body work. Anything else, I could handle.


This truck should have an NP205 transfer case in it, right? I wasn't sure if it was a 68 or 69, but some guys on facebook said they believed it to be a 69 based on some indicators like badge style, hood, and wiper arm locations. From what I have seen online, the NP205 was put in the 69 and up trucks. Would it be a twin stick transfer case or just a single lever?

[Hobcobble]

I'll definitely grab pictures when I see it. Should be going out there on the 12th to take a peek. I'm hoping it's not in too bad of shape.

I'd say the only things I wouldn't feel comfortable doing on the truck myself would be tearing the transmission or transfer case down (I just don't have the tools or experience), setting up differential gears, or doing welding/body work. Anything else, I could handle.

This truck should have an NP205 transfer case in it, right? I wasn't sure if it was a 68 or 69, but some guys on facebook said they believed it to be a 69 based on some indicators like badge style, hood, and wiper arm locations. From what I have seen online, the NP205 was put in the 69 and up trucks. Would it be a twin stick transfer case or just a single lever?

The NP435 tranny & NP 205 transfer case are well built, strong units. They might need
work.... but maybe not? .... Perhaps just a seal and some new fluid. All the other stuff
like clutch work, brake work, electrical, etc. is pretty easy stuff. Are you
near Denton? ..... just curious.

The NP205 is a one lever t/c. The NP201 is a twin stick and was used in '68 and earlier
Ws.

John

[Specwar762]

I'll definitely grab pictures when I see it. Should be going out there on the 12th to take a peek. I'm hoping it's not in too bad of shape.

I'd say the only things I wouldn't feel comfortable doing on the truck myself would be tearing the transmission or transfer case down (I just don't have the tools or experience), setting up differential gears, or doing welding/body work. Anything else, I could handle.

This truck should have an NP205 transfer case in it, right? I wasn't sure if it was a 68 or 69, but some guys on facebook said they believed it to be a 69 based on some indicators like badge style, hood, and wiper arm locations. From what I have seen online, the NP205 was put in the 69 and up trucks. Would it be a twin stick transfer case or just a single lever?

The NP435 tranny & NP 205 transfer case are well built, strong units. They might need
work.... but maybe not? .... Perhaps just a seal and some new fluid. All the other stuff
like clutch work, brake work, electrical, etc. is pretty easy stuff. Are you
near Denton? ..... just curious.

The NP205 is a one lever t/c. The NP201 is a twin stick and was used in '68 and earlier
Ws.

John

I'm about 30 minutes south of Denton.

[oldfrogdiving]

Specwar, that's a nice old rig did you pull the trigger on it? I just picked up a 71 W200 wish it had the tower of power slant 6, mines got a 318-3 trying to get it too run better waiting on a carb rebuild kit from mikes carbs and im probably gonna have to shell out for a distributor I need to figure out how to post pics, I had a 66 D200 awhile back an ex AF utiline that had a flat bed on it, I shoulda never sold it. my 225 had 30k miles on it sat for years and fired over as soon as I relubed the leather accelerator pump, make sure you check fluid level in the rear end, I blew mine on the first run.

[Specwar762]

Didn’t realize the fuel tank is behind the seat in the cab. Fingers crossed that it has been empty and didn’t rust out.

[WD]

Even if it’s good, a Bronco, Blazer or Ramchargsr tank in the rear is a simple swap. Adds some desperately needed weight behind the rear axle. My 69 D100 is going that way. I smoke like a broken foundry stack...

[Specwar762]

Even if it’s good, a Bronco, Blazer or Ramchargsr tank in the rear is a simple swap. Adds some desperately needed weight behind the rear axle. My 69 D100 is going that way. I smoke like a broken foundry stack...

I’d like to keep it as original as possible. Plus I’d have to cut a hole in the bed or body for a filler neck to relocate the tank to the back, and I don’t want to do that.

[WD]

Was just another option. Chevy and Ford in cab tanks are reproduced, Dodge are not. If yours is bad you might be able to find a good used one if yours can’t be repaired.

I’d rather have an under the bed polyethylene tank or certified fuel cell. All stainless steel brake and fuel lines, stainless and silicone tubing coolant lines. But, mine is being purpose built as a paved track push truck.

Have to meet updated track regulations.

Retired moonshine hauler, it needs a lot of work.

[Specwar762]

Well, Saturday will be the day. Going to try to get out there before lunch time and assess the situation, then get to work on trying to get it running so I can drive it on the trailer on Sunday.

Bought all new ignition parts (just in case), and a new fuel pump and line. Going to try to run it off a container of fuel since I have no idea what condition the fuel tank is in.

[Specwar762]

Well I went to look at it yesterday and do some work on it. The good news is that the engine wasn’t seized and I actually got it to start and run for about 30 seconds, but we shut her down since we didn’t have any coolant in it and the radiator was leaking. We silver soldered they leak and it should be decent for today’s efforts.

The goal is to get it out of the ruts it has sunk into after 27 years of sitting so I can come pick it up with the car hauler trailer next weekend.

https://imgur.com/a/qc8LJoi

[PwrWgnDrvr]

U won't need coolant in it to run it long enough to get it on a trailer.
You're fortunate to have a mechanical clutch.

[Wildergarten]

You're fortunate to have a mechanical clutch.

Yes and no. The hydraulic linkage is a pain. However, the hydro bell housing has two additional 'engine mounts' that reinforce the wimpy mounts Chrysler used on their engines. New mounts are available from Imperial (order early; they take a long time to deliver). All in all, I've decided that it is preferable to deal with the crappy linkage in order to have those additional mounts, particularly on a 4WD truck.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Mark, u missed the point.
When u travel to retrieve a truck that has sat for 27 yrs, and u want to drive it onto a trailer, a mech clutch won't be dead in the water needing a total rebuild just to make that 30' move. Nor will u need to drag it onto the trailer, or drive it w/o a clutch. That was the only point that was intended...

[Specwar762]

Whew, another long day.

The truck runs, pretty well actually. But it seems like the clutch is rusted to the flywheel. Pressing the clutch all the way in still results in grinding trying to get in gear. We had a stuck wheel/drum assembly in the front which required practically destroying the drum to get it off. And the rear u bolts were rusted pretty bad and broke, causing the axle to shift sideways and tilt, which caused the u joint strap to give way.

I’ll be coming back to the truck next weekend most likely, or at least sometime in the next few weeks, with a new u joint (one of the caps on the old one broke, may just steal the cap from it), a set of 4 u bolts, and a u joint strap kit. Should be able to drive it out after that.

I’m think the drum brakes and clutch situation are going to be a couple days of work, but I just want it out of the field and on my driveway so I don’t have to make a 2 hour trip one way to do anything with it.

[Wildergarten]

Whew, another long day.
And the rear u bolts were rusted pretty bad and broke, causing the axle to shift sideways and tilt, which caused the u joint strap to give way.

Unless you intend to replace the yoke (sometimes a very good idea), don't lose that strap!! They're very hard to replace.

[Specwar762]

Whew, another long day.
And the rear u bolts were rusted pretty bad and broke, causing the axle to shift sideways and tilt, which caused the u joint strap to give way.

Unless you intend to replace the yoke (sometimes a very good idea), don't lose that strap!! They're very hard to replace.

I believe one of them broke. There is only one strap left on the axle. Until we can move the truck, I won’t know if it’s on the ground underneath it.

Is it not just one of the standard u joint straps that Dorman sells?