Pioneer Chainsaw P26

Jims68 · Post by **Jims68** » Fri May 22, 2015 7:46 am

You guys are pretty informative.... anyone here own a Pioneer Chainsaw P26? I am looking for the Owners manual for one. I could use a scan of one. Sorry to sound "cheap" but I don't want to buy one that are available on PDF.... because I just had the Pioneer P26 given to me and I don't know if it is worth keeping... or whatever. I DID get it running with OLD gas that was still in it and it took about 6 pulls. However it sounds really strong, but the chain is hanging off the bottom and it is adjusted all the way OUT. So, I assume it will need a new chain. I imagine chains are still available? Personally, I never heard of a Pioneer Chainsaw before.

Anyone????

Johninky · Post by **Johninky** » Fri May 22, 2015 8:01 am

Pioneer was a Canadian company that merged with Partner, a Swedish company probably in the 1990s. Both companies manufactured great chainsaws. I own two P42 models that are 40 years old and still run great. Finding a new chain is no problem and I would recommend a new guide bar. Looking for a manual imo is just a waste of time. The saw will run or it won't. Over the years I have only had to replace the bar oil pickup hose on one saw and the recoil starter on the other when the spring broke.

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/6 ... enDocument

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/

http://www.baileysonline.com/

Jims68 · Post by **Jims68** » Fri May 22, 2015 8:53 am

Thanks John for the links! It's amazing that there are "Collectors and Forums" out there for just about everything!! Like I said the saw DOES start and run really good. Of course, I didn't put it under any load or sawing conditions. I just figured if someone had the manual... it'd be nice to have.

and yes I realize the manuals have all "basic" same info in them. The ONLY issue with this saw is that the on/off switch is wobbly. It does still work, but the little "lever" part of the switch is floppy.... if you know what I mean. However, an on/off switch is probably easy to replace. Just need to remove the housing. Now THAT may be a problem!

Not sure as I haven't looked into that yet. I'll get a pic of it if you're interested in seeing it. If not, then I won't bother.

HEtkind · Post by **HEtkind** » Fri May 22, 2015 1:42 pm

You might want to try Jacks Small Engines, http://www.jackssmallengines.com/ for a chain, bar and air filter. They have been my go to company to maintain my Poulan Pro saw, and other small pieces of equipment. I can get Stihl parts and service at my local hardware store. Jacks has the good Oregon bars and chain..

Jims68 · Post by **Jims68** » Fri May 22, 2015 1:47 pm

Here are pictures of my Pioneer P26. Yeah, I know the handle is bent, but I didn't do it, that is the way I got it.

HEtkind wrote:You might want to try Jacks Small Engines, http://www.jackssmallengines.com/ for a chain, bar and air filter. They have been my go to company to maintain my Poulan Pro saw, and other small pieces of equipment. I can get Stihl parts and service at my local hardware store. Jacks has the good Oregon bars and chain..

@ Howard, thanks for the link to "JACKS". I'll check him out.

HEtkind · Post by **HEtkind** » Fri May 22, 2015 1:58 pm

my gosh that is an old saw...get the semi-chisel chain, I doubt they make low kickback for it. And no chain safety stop either. BE CAREFUL.

sdenty · Post by **sdenty** » Fri May 22, 2015 2:27 pm

I have the same chainsaw in my garage, used to work great now stubborn to start. Same colors and all.

Jims68 · Post by **Jims68** » Fri May 22, 2015 2:51 pm

sdenty wrote:I have the same chainsaw in my garage, used to work great now stubborn to start. Same colors and all.

Check OR replace your fuel lines. That old rubber line has tendency to get cracks which allows air to enter the line. I also have an OLD Poulan 2175 50th Anniversary model saw that I got running by replacing the fuel lines. Starts right up! Also on the same "2 stroke" note, I have an old Mc Chullogh weed wacker that didn't start too good. Found that the fuel line from the tank had some cracking in it which caused it to suck air. I replaced that hose and it also starts great!

I NEED To research this saw some more.....

Jims68 · Post by **Jims68** » Fri May 22, 2015 2:54 pm

HEtkind wrote:my gosh that is an old saw...get the semi-chisel chain, I doubt they make low kickback for it. And no chain safety stop either. BE CAREFUL.

I don't know if they were less "Safety" conscious back in the 1970s and earlier... or that people had more "common sense" then. I WILL be careful as I don't like these things anyway. I've always had respect for them. I have used chainsaws before when I would cut some wood for the fireplace, but I'm not a "logger" so to speak. That was when we had a wood burning fireplace. Now it is a gas fireplace!

Jims68 · Post by **Jims68** » Sat May 23, 2015 9:33 am

I did some searching and found that OREGON makes the chains for this saw. Mine would use the OREGON H72 "LOW KICKBACK" Chain. From what it says this type is good for Homeowners and Consumer Users (I suppose that means the general public). They also show a page where they talk about how Kickback works. SEE THE LINK for the Low Kickback series chains:

http://www.oregonproducts.com/homeowner ... wchain.htm

dodgeboykim · Post by **dodgeboykim** » Sat May 23, 2015 9:40 am

You go into any shop that specializes in logging/outdoor yard maintenance etc and they will have chains of any and all descriptions.
Personally I would not use that saw now due to lack of vibration isolators and the claw finger effect when you use it and when done your fingers won't straighten out.

Jims68 · Post by **Jims68** » Sat May 23, 2015 10:01 am

Well... I have my choice between this saw and my Poulan 2175 50TH Anniversary 18" saw. I have about 4 or 5 20 foot trees to cut down and I am not going to spend $150+ for an equivalent 18" saw just for a few trees. Know what I mean? (technically, a 14" saw would do the job for me) Also, I won't be cutting them down all at one time. Throughout the summer mostly. The brush the twp. should pick up, and the "WOOD" I will leave it out near the road for someone to take it for FREE. I may keep some for those camping weekends for firewood, but it's more than I want to keep around! I have ONE maple and 3 Pines to get rid of.

And yes, I know what you mean about the "claw" fingers. Probably its from from holding on too tightly...

HEtkind · Post by **HEtkind** » Sat May 23, 2015 12:25 pm

I am a big fan of the Oregon antikick back chain...but with the limited use it will get, vibration is not a big issue.

dodgeboykim · Post by **dodgeboykim** » Sat May 23, 2015 12:39 pm

I have a Stihl MS 170 with a 16 inch bar and it will cut like hell. I carry it in my Side by Side for trees on the trail and firewood.
You don't need a big bar to cut larger trees if thought through. Claw effect on fingers is from vibration not holding too tight. I used to have a Homelite years ago and using for extended period of time was harsh on the hands. I destroyed it on purpose just to have an excuse to buy a better saw with isolators.

Jims68 · Post by **Jims68** » Sat May 23, 2015 1:42 pm

dodgeboykim wrote: I destroyed it on purpose just to have an excuse to buy a better saw with isolators.

Johninky · Post by **Johninky** » Sat May 23, 2015 2:14 pm

Old Pioneer saws, at least those around this vintage, were not hard on the hands. I've cut around 50 cords over the last 2 years and have yet to experience sore hands. Homelite saws on the other hand where "hand killers".

Jims68 · Post by **Jims68** » Sat May 23, 2015 2:36 pm

Johninky wrote:Old Pioneer saws, at least those around this vintage, were not hard on the hands. I've cut around 50 cords over the last 2 years and have yet to experience sore hands. Homelite saws on the other hand where "hand killers".

I don't have a gas/oil "MIX" Ratio for this saw and I have found on the "web" that it is 16:1 I got it running with the OLD gas that was left in it from my neighbor. Not sure what mix that is... Can ANYONE with the Pioneer confirm that? Then again... I had read this web page:

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/t ... st-3135683

Johninky · Post by **Johninky** » Sat May 23, 2015 8:41 pm

16:1 is correct. Chain pitch is .325. Gauge of chain needs to match that of the bar. Forgot to mention older saws really don't like ethanol gasoline.

dodgeboykim · Post by **dodgeboykim** » Sat May 23, 2015 9:40 pm

Johninky wrote:Forgot to mention older saws really don't like ethanol gasoline.

Use Alkyld saw gas. For example.http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=& ... GU&cad=rja

63d100sixer · Post by **63d100sixer** » Sun May 24, 2015 3:04 am

How appropriate. I am working for a guy that had me rebuild the carb on his 65 Chevy truck (later monojet).

After being impressed by my workmanship, he wanted me to check out his old chainsaw. It just happens to be a pioneer! All I know is it says "easy arc" on it. No model number. He does have a manual with it, but it is oil soaked.

I tried to get it running, but it's not accepting gas. Gas "seems" to flow well from the lines. And if I "drip" gas down the carb, she will run.

Is there a place I can get a carb kit for it? Do I need to know the specific model? It looks like the one pictures above. Yellow, and made of metal. Very very heavy! Haha

Sweptline.ORG

Pioneer Chainsaw P26

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