Pioneer Chainsaw P26

[PwrWgnDrvr]

I bought a real one yrs ago.
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/pole- ... ers/ht133/
12" bar, massive power, 12' reach.
2 wks ago cut up a massive oak crown that fell across the ranch road. 24" dia at the base, 10" dia limbs at the side of the road 10' in the air, multiple widowmakers. 70 minutes later all cleared, stood on the ground the whole time.

[Wildergarten]

I bought a real one yrs ago.
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/pole- ... ers/ht133/
12" bar, massive power, 12' reach.
2 wks ago cut up a massive oak crown that fell across the ranch road. 24" dia at the base, 10" dia limbs at the side of the road 10' in the air, multiple widowmakers. 70 minutes later all cleared, stood on the ground the whole time.

I've used one of those here borrowed from a neighbor. It had a 10" bar and probably twice the torque of the one I have now, which is good for all but about 10% of the cases in which I'd use a pole saw. Any bigger than an 8' btamch and I''d probably prefer my MS-200T (16" bar and arborist chain). Climbing with the gas pole saw is a good bit more tasking, as the length and power head cause it to hang up a lot more easily in a convoluted tree like a live oak. For a tree like you are describing, I'd probably climb it, with or without a pole saw; else it is just too difficult from the ground to get the angle and placement of the cut on the branch collar correct, such that the tree can heal before too many borers get into it. If it's a weak branch, then top rope onto it. Etc.

I cut an awful lot of trees, having burned 60 tons of wood in just the last month, most of it fDoug fir and California bay laurel.
That story starts here: https://www.wildergarten.org/wildergart ... rstory.pdf

[PwrWgnDrvr]

That oak wasn't climbable. It fell out of an almost vertical creek bank into the opposite absolutely vertical bank with the crown across the road at the top of the 20' high bank. It was dug into the roadbed and the bank on the opposite side of the road with some limbs crossing the road 10+' in the air. The base of the tree was in the air, 5' above the creek in the bottom of the ravine. It was now a "dead" oak with no healing possible. As pieces of the crown that anchored it were cut free, the entire tree would twist and slide downhill, with one stub leaving a 2' "claw mark" in the road bed. With a regular chainsaw, it would have been next to impossible. With the polesaw I could safely stand aside as it slid and twisted and also reach the horizontal limbs crossing 10' above the road.

[Wildergarten]

That oak wasn't climbable. It fell out of an almost vertical creek bank into the opposite absolutely vertical bank with the crown across the road at the top of the 20' high bank. It was dug into the roadbed and the bank on the opposite side of the road with some limbs crossing the road 10+' in the air. The base of the tree was in the air, 5' above the creek in the bottom of the ravine. It was now a "dead" oak with no healing possible. As pieces of the crown that anchored it were cut free, the entire tree would twist and slide downhill, with one stub leaving a 2' "claw mark" in the road bed. With a regular chainsaw, it would have been next to impossible. With the polesaw I could safely stand aside as it slid and twisted and also reach the horizontal limbs crossing 10' above the road.

Please Terry. By your description, I've dealt with worse, taking out many widow makers (both broken leaners into other trees and parts of trees hung up in other trees) in a climbing belt with gaffs and a topping saw. This one had a rotten trunk leaning near high tension power lines and over my main 240V drop.

Been at it for thirty years and still in one piece, in part because I know when to call in the cherry picker, which has been only twice. It's nice that you've got a big bad pole saw, but having used both (including climbing with manual pole saw/pruners) I've found what I have to be prefereable because of the lighter weight, especially when climbing which I only do a few times a year any more. I'd rather spend my money on better gaffs, as mine are decidedly uncomfortable.

[soopernaut]

I need to know which product is the best from the ones listed on the site? https://onlychainsaw.com/best-electric-chainsaw/

I wouldn't touch any of them except maybe as a topping saw or for carpentry work. The only electric saw I have is on a pole. It's gonna be a looooong time before an electric saw touches an 044 or MS-880.

As to whether they are more environmentally sensitive, well, I'm not a big fan of lithiium mining.

I'm pretty sure that is spam you are replying to; new person, 1 post with a link, old thread, etc.