Sweptline.ORG

I'm shocked you can't find a shop willing to do it. Took me all of 15 minutes per to turn mine down. Maybe they don't want the liability? You could say they're for a tractor :) I used to tell a local hydraulic hose place that I needed brake lines for a "go kart" when really I needed them for a car o...

With the factory power steering style if you don't have any fluid it's like having an inch of slop in the drag link. The fluid pressure holds the steering piston centered in the steering valve in the middle of the drag link. The factory setup has a lot of leak points (6 hoses, steering valve, cylind...

You can run a disc master on drums, just not the other way around. Disc masters are set up to move more fluid because discs require more fluid. They make the same pressure as a drum master because pressure is a function of the bore. They're just set up with a bigger reservoir and the fluid entry poi...

I have had a problem with not having stationary steering. However once I rebuilt one of the 4 rebuilt steering pumps, that problem is solved. This is part of the instructions for the 400 series, CP50006c that is installed on my 1970 d100. 18. Connect the power steering hoses. There are arrows cast ...

Another note, I would not use the adapter to press the new fitting in. The new fitting (in my case anyway) was aluminum and I didn't want the spinning steel adapter to scar the sealing surface of the seat. I tapped mine in place with a brass drift first before screwing in the new adapter. The new se...

EM, the adapter was not the cause of the seat removal issue. I was just noting that if your adapter bottoms out between the hex and the pump housing then you have a seat that is too short (since it seals at the bottom of the fitting it needs to tighten up there before you're out of adapter length). ...

I also had to have CPP send me a replacement seat for the high pressure side of the box. Getting the old one out is not easy, I used a tap to thread into the seat and a slide hammer. Pretty disappointing on a brand new steering box, especially since they seem to have had this issue off and on for a ...

I'm running the 8-lug setup so it uses 1994 Ram 2500 front calipers. Those would originally have had a 1 1/4" bore MC according to RockAuto. I'm running a 1 1/8" Disc/Drum MC from a 1972 D200 with power brakes, which should result in more pressure at the fronts at the expense of a slightly softer pe...

What calipers are you running and what bore m/c?

I've had the Scarebird kit on my truck for a couple hundred miles now and I can't get it where I want it in terms of pedal feel. Everything is new, I'm using all the recommended parts including the m/c. I've also put a new booster on the truck, new rear brakes/hardware, new lines, etc. The pedal fee...

My '67 collects water in the step areas when the doors are shut. It runs out when the doors are opened up, so the seals at the door bottoms are holding it in. Should there be a gap or drain somewhere that lets this water out when the doors are shut? Or is it supposed to be sealed enough that this wa...

Put about 100 miles on the D200 on Saturday. No issues. First decent drive since the CPP power steering install and I'm very pleased with it. Side note, I found this bushing remains in my bellhousing. About an inch long and 5/8" od. Anyone know what it might be from? Clutch fork pivot? IMG_20180730_...

Nothing obvious. The truck doesn't lose coolant, and the coolant is new as of a few months ago when I replaced the water pump. Also, either the engine rear main and/or the transmission input leaks a little because the inspection cover was oily inside, which I'd have thought would have helped keep th...

So, weirdly, the clutch was just stuck to the flywheel. Pulled the inspection plate off and worked a hacksaw blade (with the teeth ground off) behind the disc and it popped free. What could make the clutch stick in just a couple weeks? Anything I can do to either prevent this in the future, or to un...

I'll get a buddy over sometime to work the clutch while I check the clutch through the cover. My old '67 got stuck once, but that was after sitting for like a year and the plate glued itself to the flywheel. This happened in a week which surprised the heck outta me (especially when I popped it into ...

Side note, how do I make sure I get the right clutch ordered before I drop the trans? I see there are 10" and 11" options, and diaphragm or lever pressure plates? Are the diaphragm and lever style plates interchangeable? I would assume being a D200 318/NP435 that I have the 11" clutch?

3 weeks ago I drove my truck into the garage, no problem. No creeping, dragging, noises, etc. A week later I jumped in to go for a drive and couldn't get the clutch to disengage to put it in gear. Found some fluid on the clutch slave so I figured it was bad. Tonight I replaced it (the leak actually ...

The new studs don't need to be swaged again. If you got the old ones out without damaging the hub just put your new drums on and press or hammer the replacements in. I don't even know if you can buy new studs that are designed to be swaged? My new rear drums are just running pressed-in studs.

Bends won't help the bump-steer issue. No matter what the drag link looks like, it will swing in an arc between the steering knuckle and the pitman arm, and the arc is what causes the bump steer. Now, you could possibly have enough room after the dropped axle to space the draglink down from the unde...

Did the sweptlines have any sort of coolant recovery tank stock? My '67 randomly pukes a 10" spot out on the floor of the garage, so I need to do something. Besides making a mess I end up having to top off the coolant from time to time.