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Yeah that is really strange. The fact that it is intermittent almost sounds like it is related to something moving while you are in motion (like a flex hose kinking), but that should not allow the pads to fall out (especially on both sides). And the fact that you added a 2lb residual valve pretty me...

Those prices for the pair, or each? I just had mine done for $30/side to have them pressed and reamed, they did a great job. Not all shops know how to do this any more, one even wanted to use a brake cylinder hone. The best reamers are Chadwick Trefethen's Critchley brand. About $120 as I recall. Yo...

There are a few good places to get them, Eaton and ESPO come to mind.

Eaton does leafs with up to +3" from stock

Did it happen all of a sudden? Check your front springs. You also checked tire pressure I am guessing.

Can only speak to the stock setup on the early D100's, but the front leafs do have differing ends - the front the eye is below the spring, in the back it is above. Power steering trucks also had the wedge-shaped shim to add caster. Part numbers are different left to right for both 4-leaf (2,050 lb) ...

Can the brackets be purchased separately?

Dunno, but would be worth giving Wayne a call. Just make sure the bores in those old calipers from the New Yorker aren't trashed beyond use.

There is this http://piratejack.net/1959-1971-early-model-dodge-d100-d200-chrysler-full-size-car/ from MBM. Uses a hemi-style offset bracket to raise the booster up. Note that most of these will have interference with the upper lip on the firewall. You could bend it out of the way or fab some kind o...

Depends if you are using a separate distribution block. If so you can mount it on the frame rail just fore of the rear axle and regulate the rear brakes there. If you are using a single prop valve to both split the lines front/back and regulate flow, a common place is on the frame rail just aft of t...

Great thank you.

I'm getting ready to install the new king pins with NAPA roller bearings, and had two quick questions in case anyone has done this recently. First, I noticed the retaining bolt in the kit is longer than the stock bolt by about 1/8": http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag142/Steve_Boelhouwer/brakePe...

Nice! What kind of prop valve is that?

anyone use the side filler tank??????????? curious how the filler could route. I like the additional 4 gal. of capacity . 21 rather than 17. The old aftermarket "saddle" tanks usually had a fill in the bed side, usually with a locking door. They were popular back in the days of campers. Many of the...

Cunifer lines are great, easier to bend/flare than steel and more corrosion resistant. They have been standard in most European cars for many years. The one downside for a resto is the appearance is different than stock, the color of the lines is, well, copper-ish. Coelcanth's pics are a good exampl...

Hello, no I just soaked them in Simple Green for a bit to clean them, then polished with 800 grit sandpaper. There are NOS ones on eBay, but quite expensive.

I show the original p/n was 2095609. Pretty easily found.

This is probably the simplest writeup you'll ever see, but while I was redoing my brakes I decided to yank out the pedal and take a few hours to clean it up. I found a couple interesting things so thought I would post these few pics. The pedal assembly is really simple, it hangs on a thick pivot sh...

Thank you for posting the pics.
From the stamped ID number it looks like the original trans, the p/n is for 69-70 smallblock 727, and the date of manufacture was Monday, November 25, 1968. Nice!

Thanks. Yeah that's the way I did it once before, just wanted to make sure I wasn't too old-school about it.

OK, So I'll soon be replacing the leaf springs & king pins on my D100 and so might as well yank the axle out to blast and repaint everything. In the past I'd pull off the spindles and steering arms, remove the u-Bolts and drop the axle, then pull out the springs. But I was watching one of those BS r...