Sweptline.ORG

Foreign made or foreign remanufactured that is the question. Even if the starter were made in America today the parts used in production came from somewhere else. Welcome to the global economy. Sorry dude.

I removed my lines and cleaned them with a wire wheel then clear coated them. Would have been nicer with polished stainless but turned out OK. Pictures are kind of crappy.

I think you would have been better off eating rubber and trying to poop your own. Wow!!! that is really bad.

I'm kind of surprised no one else commented on this. Eastwood has some very good products. I have used the high temp manifold spray coating with great success and also the hand applied cream. The cream I used on manifolds and the spray I used on headers. Never having owned a six but being fully awar...

If you don't mind could you back up just a bit. What exactly happened to make you feel the line needed to be replaced?

Some type of media blasting will have to be employed on the exhaust manifold its about the only way to truely get it clean and while your there might as well do the intake also. As far as the finish lasting you'll have to coat it with something or it will look terrible in a couple of months.

I believe fireguyfire has the wheel answers he was looking for. Now reallylongnickname seems to have anxiety of multi-piece rims. Unknowns can always make us uneasy. Knowledge and experience is power in this circumstance. The more exposure someone has to multi-piece rims the better the understanding...

I worked in a tire shop for a few years, lots of multiple piece rims out there. Why would any manufacturer use anything that could cost them money long term? Typically used in heavy duty applications. As previously stated… only dangerous in the hands of an oblivious, inexperienced person.

I think all the linkage for the trans might be a problems trying to go above.

Hope not to be reposting. The new justice league movie Clark Kents mother drives a 69 long beb. Several good shots of it.

I think rose colored glasses may have affected my opinion. I found my headers at a really good price, $100.00, and my mufflers cost around $65.00 each ( Walker Dyno Max)so, my complete system cost me $400.80. Silver linening, headers and mufflers came with stickers.

O.K. I've read the entire thread and are amazed at the prices. I went with a local shop. I supplied the headers ( Hedman 79010) and mufflers and the shop supplied the 3" aluminized pipe with cross over tube and turn downs. Not much bending involved with mine as the pipes run straight from the header...

I wonder if instead of an "A" for .020 cylynder bores they just stamped a #2. With it being a 69 there should be a VIN number as well as a block ID number. Beginning in 1968 all Mopar B&RB engine blocks have an engine serial number stamped in the left side oil pan rail at the rear corner under the s...

I had a surprising moment recently. I was perusing Craigslist and saw a vehicle advertised that I had seen on eBay. Out of curiosity I looked at the ad and noticed it was offered by a dealer. I viewed the dealer’s site and was astonished to see that even the most basic old Chrysler product was liste...

No, you should not have to remove anything. Does it have a vin number on it? B=1966 followed by the month and day, 27 2, it was installed in the car, not the day the engine was made.

Based on what I've read online since reading this all three domestic manufacturers had their own specific name for that type of bed and the common slang, because of the steps, became "Step Side". Each manufacture changed its designation at least once or twice over the years. As far as the Chrysler C...

At the risk of having my knuckles smacked with a ruler... Utiline - Utility Line. Work truck for farms and such.

My 71 is a 128" wheel base with a single piece drive shaft. No problems here. Its not like there isnt another shop capable of doing that type of work. Sounds like the type of person who would remove a vacum line and tell you the engine needs to be replaced.

Decode the block casting number as follows: 2120329 = 383 RB (1959-1960) 1851729 = 383 B (1959-1964) 2128854 = 383 B (1964) 2532130 = 383 B (1965) 2568130 = 383 B (1959-1971) 2899830 = 383 B (1970) Decode the ID boss stamping as follows: M38 = 1959 383 (B block) MR38 = 1959 383 (RB block) P38 = 1960...

What did the two barrell engine come out of? What are the casting numbers and stamp numbers on the block, heads?