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Before or after you changed ignition parts?

Header pipe? You should be able to find something through Walker. Its only a flared piece of pipe with a two bolt/ hole flange.

If you have a stock build you should be fine with just about any replacement converter. No name brands should be fine.

If it's stock just use the stock converter. If you can find an actual 69 383 HP engine torque converter they work very well.

Based on the articles that I've read and the Youtube videos that I've watched it seems to be a very common problem. The combustion chamber volume of these heads can vary. If building it can be compensated for with parts but if simply replacing it might be a problem especially when I've read of as mu...

Heads are out of the shop and everything checked out o.k. with two discrepancies. The heads are advertised as having 63 cc combustion chambers and they didn't. The heads I purchased ended up having 66 cc combustion chambers on average. The second discrepancy was the valve springs, advertised to supp...

I think with Autolite the last number, "4", dictates the heat range. 5 or 6 would be a hotter plug. I have had headers on all mine. They point to the center away from the headers anyway. Rather than type a lot Heres a link to read. https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2011/05/understanding-spark-plug-he...

I've always had good luck with Autolite 64'S and 65'S. As long as your heat range is right you should be ok with whatever.

I hear tell that all Mopar fanatics are purist. I keep wanting to replace my wiring but can't bring myself to do it. It's all original...

The one drawback I have encountered is... Flash Rust. Your parts look amazing, very bright and shiny, as long as they're in the solution but, as soon as you remove them they begin to rust very quickly. It's a water-based solution and your parts are covered, lightly, in molasses so you need to rinse ...

Just thought I'd add that ambient temp seems to be important. During the colder days, there was always condensation inside the container I used but when the temp went up there was definitely more activity in the mix.

I watched some British car show where a heavy calcium deposit cooling system was repaired by a soak in a molasses water mix. Was curious so I looked to Youtube. Was surprised by what I saw so I tried it myself. I put an intake, cam trust plate and various other small parts in a 10 to 1 mix, water to...

I went to the local Ford dealership and got the same one for mine and didn't have a problem. Looked exactly the same.

Contact powerwagon54 he probably has something.

It's basically new tech in the same control module housing.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/rev-n-n ... rt-garage/

I've run the MP conversion on several different vehicles with no problems. I also use the MP Chrome boxes with no issues. I plan to be using the REV-N-NATOR control module by the end of this year.

Not sure about the 6 ft but you tend to see 8 ft bed trailer conversions from 4 to 600.

The heads require different bolts or studs. Roughly $135 for bolts to $200 for studs, ouch! Through friends, I was able to locate new ARP studs for $60. Heads are in the shop being inspected, gasket matched and having the bowl area cleaned up. As of right now, I'm into the heads for $1494.

Aerohead racing "aeroheadracing.com" is basically the same company as Indy. No matter what anyone tells you, you speak to the same folks. All the cast iron replacement heads are very similar in basic design, they all use the magnum type design. Indy has the LA-X and it supports stock valve train wit...

Headers are expensive you might try swapping to the newer mini starter. They are shorter and narrower. Doesn't have to be one of the pricy ones just a rebuilt replacement type. My opinion they're better starters anyway. Just a thought.