Sweptline.ORG

Pretty sure direct swap but man the 3.55 is a good ratio. You should verify what ratio you have as it may not be what is on door and check to see if a limited slip is in there as you don't want to lose that in a swap. (I made that 400 dollar plus mistake )

Just curious if anyone has experimented with or installed any of the bear claw type door latch hardware kits?
jim

Outstanding! Very cool truck.

It was a D and is now a W. Same headers.

Like John said above Bud usually has good stock ones!

I have had Hedman long tube headers on a 66 and a 70. Not stainless. Maybe they don't make them anymore however.
jim

What big block is it?

That's probably the best advise. Mine probably had some small easily soldered pin hole.

I had one that leaked and was able to get it fixed at a radiator shop. Maybe yours is worse or not fixable?
jim

New?

Spline. A steering wheel puller helps but as stated by Mark not necessarily required.

That's a pretty clean looking parts truck!!

Were you able to come up with a solution to your brake problem?
jim

The one on ebay there is for D trucks not W.

The rare parts unit maybe? I have heard the tapers are not quite right however. I have stopped thinking on it all for a bit.

The two trucks I own 1966 and 1970 both have a black finish (factory) to the battery tray. I am pretty sure they are stock.
jim

A member here gave a step by step on how to rebuild. Looked difficult. If a Saginaw box I would send to Bud. Its a couple of hundred bucks plus shipping. If it is in spec and able to be reworked.

A braided steel cable going to a hydraulic throwout inside the bell does not sound right.

I cant believe you cant fine a disc 8 lug dana 44. But I guess locally they can be rare and who wants to ship a thing like that.

I had bad contact between the "blade" of the adjuster and the star wheel. Had to bend and file to get good grip.
Im not usually right but it happened to me. New stuff.
jim