Sweptline.ORG

The pulley diameter issue was brought up by myself since it had never been mentioned before and no one had apparently experimented with trying an alternate pulley in an attempt to resolve the low RPM lack of power steering. It seems an obvious solution to me as most if not everyone who posted with ...

I've also been hemming and hawing about ordering a CPP kit for a year or so now. It does seem that the available pressure is the issue. It should be possible to adjust the pump for higher idle pressure without increasing top-end pressure. One vendor of the kits (who cannot be mentioned here) offers ...

Can someone with parts books tell me if the input-side and control valve parts for a D300 factory p/s install are the same as a D200? There's a D300 setup on ebay, and I've been looking for the highlighted parts below to replace worn out pieces in my D200 power steering. They sure look the same as t...

I'm rebuilding my steering box as per the walkthrough in the tech section. When I disassembled it I counted 50 balls, just like the one in the tech section, but there's a sizeable gap in the ball tubes when I reassemble it. Enough room for another ball or two per channel. I've reassembled the ballnu...

Problem with the rear disc conversion is parking brake. You either need to use Eldorado calipers which are kind of a PITA or run the earlier truck parking brake which goes on the trans tailshaft.

I just did these in my truck and the bearings I got looked just like yours. One side should say "Top", which is self explanatory :). As far as I can tell they do.not come apart, I just packed mine by hand like a wheel bearing and then pumped more grease in after assembling the king pin. The bearing ...

Do you still have the m/c you removed from the truck? Can you measure it and verify it was 1" bore, same as your new m/c?

Did the truck have this problem before you replaced the master cylinder, or did it start after you replaced it?

I don't know when they became standard equipment but the m/c I removed from my '67, as well as the brand new m/c for a '72 that I just installed, did not have internal RPV's. The OP should check his to see if it has an internal one as well. There's a fairly easy test for it. Take a piece of thin wir...

Terry, I've gotta disagree with you on the function of the residual pressure valve. As per Wilwood's website (about 2/3's down the page http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderValves.aspx): "Wilwood two pound and ten pound residual pressure valves retain a minimum brake line pressure to...

I'm confused by the description/pictures from that link. The description seems to indicate that valve performs all the necessary functions internally including residual pressure, but the diagram in the second picture appears to indicate that you need to plumb in external residual pressure valves? Tx...

So jealous because a) there are NO trucks that clean for sale in my neck of the country and b) my fly-n-ride's NEVER go that smooth! Beautiful truck.

I don't know what size the pre-bent lines are, I'm not using them because I'm mounting the valve down on the frame in the stock location. The Summit valve inlets are 1/2"-20 and 7/16"-24. You might be able to get tube nuts for these sizes in 3/16" but they're more commonly 1/4" tube nut sizes. I'm r...

I bought a Summit complete drum/disc valve (SUM-760182) that member pwadventurer used: http://www.sweptline.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=38901 I preferred an all-in-one option with the correct residual pressure and proportioning instead of the adjustable called out in the Scarebird install, plus ...

Any updates? I'll be going with the scarebird kit next month if I can't find a better way by then. Also anyone have AAJ's parts list? Can't help you with the AAJ list but I'm installing a Scarebird setup on my D200 this week. Cost all-in, including a new prop valve and brake lines, was about $600. ...

So here's an odd thing. I don't appear to have shims on my axle:





It's a factory p/s truck, doesn't look like the axle has ever been off. What gives?

Hobcobble wrote:To do the job thoroughly, I'd recommend removing the shims and
replacing the u-bolts. You shouldn't re-use u-bolts.
John

I recall some threads about new U-bolts not being the same as stock. Is there a source for the correct flat-inside U-bolts?

My brake m/c is leaking, and my power booster also appears to be leaking (won't hold vacuum when tested with a hand pump) so I thought I'd replace them. I wanted to confirm, however, that these are factory '67 parts and not sourced from a later vehicle. Can anyone confirm that this is a factory '67 ...

The title pretty much says it all. I'm removing the factory p/s from my D200, at least for the time being, because some of the unobtainable parts are worn/damaged beyond use. Has anyone removed their factory p/s and left the axle shims? I believe that the shims add some caster for better stability, ...

I know this is a bit of an old thread, but would these part numbers be the same for a '67 D200?