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do you have a pcv system on the engine? it will help pull moisture out.

straighten it and then weld a piece of 1" angle iron on it. good as new. i think i may have one that i dont need

digdoug wrote:The only issue you will have with the raised block engine is that you may have to remove your brake booster to remove the valve cover on that side, not a deal breaker for sure.

not an issue at all. at least for me.

i bought one of ACC's carpet kits for my jeep. opened the box, took a look and sent it back. junk.

the so called "proportioning valve" is nothing but a gizmo that turns on a light on the dash when your brakes are failing. the actual "proportioning" is done in the master cylinder. the "proportioning" can be adjusted by changing the spring between the front and rear ports.

marklein wrote:While you were upgrading, you could have gotten a coil that is good for constant 12V, and remove the ballast completely. Eliminate one more problem area.

ill look into that. there is 1 wire from the ballast to the ignition control. would need to figure out what the wire does

i just bought the restoration specialties kit. i paid extra for 3 day shipping, it took 5 and the vent window seals were on back order. if they dont refund the shipping difference, im going to let the whole net know.

Do you know how many wires pass through the fire wall. I am going to replace my wire harness and I want to try a bulk head connector instead of running them through a hole in the firewall. BTW, your wiring looks good. You did a great job. thanks there may be 20 +/- wires through the fire wall. all ...

ive finished everything up and everything works like it should. i did end up turning my idle up to around 650 to get the alternator to not fluctuate and hold 14 volts. lights, heater and wipers all at the same time :clap whooda thunk it possible? the rest of the pics everything all taped up http://i...

If you could post of a picture of your switch & one of your motor if might help us identify what you are dealing with & we could go from there. Bucky +1 pics help! i have rebuilt a couple of the wiper motors with great results. if you would like to send the original, i can give it a try no charge. ...

Txas2step wrote:http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-TRUCK-VAN ... 472wt_1001

thank you. we will see how it works. napa has a part # listed but the core is no longer available.

anyone know of a source for a new heater core? 1970 w200

thanks all

part 2 45 years of repairs and upgrades. looks like crap, but not for long! http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w87/sweatybetty1/DSCF1880_zpspcx6jle1.jpg http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w87/sweatybetty1/DSCF1882_zps7mrlxzde.jpg once everything is out, its time to get the fuseblock ready and in pla...

i finally decided to do something ive needed to do for years. replace the wiring harness in my 70 w200. i will try to post enough pictures, but please ask if you need more detail. the first step was to find a harness, which i found here http://www.streetrodelectrics.com/wire-harnesses/dodge/14-circu...

behindthebadge wrote:I can only tell you that it is a very common problem with these trucks. Someone on here will know the answer.

+1 mine is the same way.

yes. but they may not use the same flywheel or torque converter due to internal or external balancing.

Looks good, pulleys line up ok? What year and model does the V- belt pulley type alternator come on. Did you up-grade to relays for the head lights also? pulleys line up fine. the alt part# is 13185. iirc, it is from an early 90s Chrysler v8. i am hoping to start the re-wire this weekend, but am wa...

new 90 amp denso onto my big block. total time with fabbing a couple of mounting braces was maybe 2 hours tops. voltmeter is showing right at 14 volts with the headlights on at idle. should be much better once the new wiring harness goes in! http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w87/sweatybetty1/DSCF18...