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Thanks Jim. They do not appear to be bent. Do you think they will just pop out and stay? Body work is not my thing, if you hadn't noticed. Thanks again

How does one go about fixing doors that are not flat across. Both of my doors are not, that are in fact concave. One by about a half an inch in the middle. No other dents, damage or body filler. Any ideas ?
Thanks,

Does anybody know if all trucks came with an interior rear view mirror. My late model 1965 does not have one and there are no holes for mounting one. From ones I've seen for sale, looks like there would be mounting holes. Thanks,

Anybody the length for the steel bushing that goes through the rear cab mounts ? It a 65 w200 if it matters. Thanks in advance.

That makes sense. I guess I'll need to fab something up. So I guess a bushing that would allow the rubber to compress some, how much ?, and then bottom out and tighten up.

Does anybody know the torque for the rear cab mounts bolts. Mine do not really get tight just squeeze the mounts down and lower the cab mount height a little. Thanks

Vintage Power Wagons sells them

That is them, Did not see how to attach the photo myself.

I have installed a set of early hemi block hugger headers with Bruce Toth's adapter plates on my late 65 w200. If you would like photos send me a message with your email address and I will send them. Or, I posted them on the Facebook group "Dodge Sweptline Trucks".

My 1965 w200 does not have a heater control valve in it. Don't know if it was removed or never had one. It has the model 86 heater in it and it looks like the valves are usually located in the heater. Does anybody have a part number for a valve that will work and fit inside the heater. I also need t...

There does not appear to be an input shaft seal on my 65 NP435 4 speed. Normal ? I pulled the front bearing housing and there is no place for a seal in front of the input shaft ball bearing. There is an oil drain hole that allows oil to flow back to gear box when it gets past bearing. I also have 67...

Does not look right. Assuming the crank is not broken, crank end play looks way too much, should be .005-.007 or so. Maybe no thrust bearing surface left on main.

Small block chevy cylinder head dowels work just fine. Same size and readily available.

Yah, when I went back to read, it did not make sense to me either. But you got the point. I think I found some blind holes that match on the block and heads. It appears that 5/16 pins about 1/2 long will work, same as a chevy small block. Thanks,

Do the 318 poly heads have alignment pins on the block from the factory ? Mine does not have them and was wondering if it should and where they would be located. Thanks

There should be a caged nut in that hold. May have rusted away and fallen out.

I'm at the same place you are. Wondering about re-assembly order. I took core support off before fenders and that worked out well. My inclination at this point to to reverse order and loosely install fenders first and then core support and then hood as you mentioned. just a thought. Good luck.

Have not looked yet but does anyone know of a source for new rag joints ?

Zinc sounds good. There did not appear to be paint If I remember correct but also no rust. they were just dirty and dried lube. Thanks,

Anybody know what the original hood hinge color is on a '65 ? I bead blasted them and now cannot remember if them were black or a silver color. They look bare now and don't appear zinc or cad platted but there is no rust so plating is a possibility.