Sweptline.ORG

69 Dodge Dart
70 Crewcab Powerwagon
01 4runner
05 Chrysler 300c AWD

I see all the spot welds and a few short weld beads. I was thinking welding it out might cut down on wind noise and add a slight amount of strength to the cab. Body filler would be a lot less work but I worry about it flexing and cracking after a while. No technical reason not to weld it out?

I'm considering welding all the panel seams inside my 70 crewcab, I don't really like the way it looks as is. Or is it a better idea to use filler instead of welding. I figured I would tap the wisdom found here before I went too far. Good idea, bad idea?

I believe the six I pulled out of my 69 dart was blue

No, I have decided to call it quits on figuring out the rats nest of wires and start from scratch. I have a painless harness that will be going in when I get the time.

I just hope that this won't drive up the prices on our trucks. Shows like Barrett Jackson have priced the mopar cars out of most regular people. Fools see things like this on TV, then think every rusted out pile they have is worth lots of money. Gone are the days of the $300 swepty?

Thanks for the advice! I'm actually using your parts, my wife ordered them as a gift and I received the first box here in Alaska yesterday.

I'm about to replace all the steel in the floor of my crew cab and I was hoping to get some advice on how to make sure everything stays straight. I'm planning on welding in lots of braces but with the existing rust problem I'm worried that things have started to sag. Any advice would be great

I see a lot of posts about swapping Dakota parts into sweptlines ( transmissions, axels ) why not use the full size truck parts? Also as a side question did Dodge ever build a 3/4 ton single cab short bed?

Thanks for the offer on the plate but I'm going to pass. I don't yet own a trailer, which seems rediculous considering that I'm into sweptlines. I had this thought last night, could it be the fusible link that killed the system? I had one take a dump on me while I was driving my 75 power wagon, but ...

That would not be to much fun, towing like that. I know what you mean about rewiring the entire truck, I have a complete painless look that I have been sitting on since 2007. I had originally bought it for a 68 long bed that I inherited but that thing fell through when I bought a house in a neighbor...

The frustrating thing about it was that the lights would not kill the truck untill I replaced the ballast resistor.

In the short periods of time I had in the evenings due to working seven days a week I seem to have taken one step forward and ten back on my lights problem. After reading FlatTop's post I went through and sanded all mounting points, ran a new frame to bed ground, and reattached the bed to cab ground...

I knew the turn signal switch was broken so I replaced it with a NAPA brand replacement. The problem didn't change.

Let me start out by saying I know nothing about electrical systems. My trucks (1970 W200) turn signals don't work like they should. When I set it to the right turn signal the brake lights come on at both lights. When I step on the brakes the drivers side light goes out while the passenger light stay...

Yes, I had no problems bleeding the air out if the back half. I did not replace those cylinders

Has anyone ever seen brake cylinders bleed air after the pedal pressure has been released? I have just installed new cylinders on my 70 W200 fronts and finally gave up after a bottle and a half of fluid. The fluid would pump out with no air in it, then after the pedal was released air would come pou...

That would explain the chewed up edges of the nut then.

Thank you for the info. My setup is very similar to that one. The only outward difference I can see is mine is equiped with dualmatic hubs. I have taken the lock out off and have seen a large nut that I assumed needed removing. There was no tabed lock nut to be seen (I have only worked with the driv...

Not yet but it's on the list. And yes, it is a lock out hub.