Sweptline.ORG

Correct, 66. Door hinges are fairly tight, no sag. Door would occasionally lock by itself, and I would have to roll down the window and unlock it with the key. Friend just jumped in and said, you have to pull harder, before I could stop him. Door still stuck, and something is rattling around. crap. ...

My drivers door is locked closed. A friend thot he could help, think it is now broke. searching thru the forum for info, think it is fixable, based on the number of threads covering the topic. Just frustrating, you can't just jerk on stuff on these old trucks. Will start on it next week.

Bought a used '93 Club Cab 4x4 Dakota w/318 and auto, many years ago. Pulled a 20' Prowler all around Washington with it for several years, then the youngest daughter became an athlete, and we needed a bigger truck with more room. All I ever did was change the oil and put tires and shocks on it. Goo...

Forgot to come back and say thanks. Up and running! Thanks.

Jims68 wrote:I would remove the switch and take it AND the key to a lock shop. They can cut keys and check it right on the spot.

Jim

That's what I was thinking. Key works the doors, also, so I wanted to keep it.

Everything is working, but I only have one key, and it is marginal as to fit. Replace the switch or see if the lock shop can rebuild it or can I replace the tumbler stuff?

Had to give up and pay a guy to sort out rear electrics, and had him install a turn signal switch from Bud in Vancouver. Put in new battery, and fresh gas, and been having a good time driving the truck around town. Stopped by NAPA and got a couple of ballast resistors to keep in the glovebox. Put cu...

66 D-200 - mechanic and I think it is the switch, but I will check cab to frame grounds soon.

If not bad ground there, (we have hit everything else..)

Where is the best place to get a switch?

Sweet, gettin lost in the depth of that paint.

Gonna do Lakes style pipes, once I get everything else sorted out.

repeat photo:

Okay, so I am not crazy....still looking on craigslist, and thinking if I buy 'that' truck, I will have the parts I need when I want them, or....I should pick that truck up, just because I know I will want a short box with bucket seats and an automatic one of these days. Oh dear.

Will check that out.

Someone has added a second fuse block, my back is hurting too bad to get under there and trace it.

Stopped by NAPA, ordered new brakelight switch, and a couple of other things. Trying to get all that weird wiring sorted out is not going too well. I figured I better get it lined up, before I put in the new switch. Took out the old trailer brake control, apparently it had been disconnected much ear...

Campinfool wrote:Are bad ideas welcome??

AWESOME....you remember the custom van craze, with the wood shop project routered out letters on the pine board where the bumper used to be?

Looking around the web, this is what I found:


Pick-n-Pull - Tacoma

Previously: Pull A Part

(Self-Service Auto Parts Store)

2416 112th Street S
Lakewood, WA 98499 US

Is this the one you are referring to?

If the truck wrecking yard on A street doesn't have what you need, you're s.o.l... :lol: Last time I was in there (used to live up the hill in Buckley) they had parts junkers back to the 1930s. Also try South Hill Auto Wrecking, pricey but generally has some older Dodge stuff. Skip Walt and Vern's,...

Nice custom. Like the fuel cell between the frame rails, and looks like the fill is in the bed. Probably don't have to worry about it being blocked by a load, don't see that truck taking a trip to the city dump.

I had the later model light duty Ford bumper on the rear of a 53 F100 I used to have, worked well and looked good. I have to just get out and cruise the wrecker yards, with my tape measure.

Front bumper appears to have a very slight curve, and be a bit wider that the box, don't think that would work too well.