Sweptline.ORG

May be an old thread but I was reading through. If you go to your local plumbing or electrical supply house and ask for 3/8 uni strut nuts they work great for captured nuts behind panels. I used them on my hood in this situation and also on the pesky upper rear fender location that bolts thru just a...

Like I said, if the motor ain't smoking on high speed, then there is nothing wrong with it. If the new motor is a higher HP than the old one it will draw more current. If that is the case, the resistors will not be rated at high enough wattage to handle the current and will get hotter than they wou...

Those resistors get hot as hell on the low speeds. If the motor is drawing too many amps it would be smoking and the fuse would blow. How about getting an ammeter and measuring what the actual current draw is before assuming there is a problem. Thanks. The bearings were shot as well and like I said...

Thank you for the response. I suppose il make a bracket to use this one and jot down the part number that I have for future reference down the road

Put in a universal heater switch with resistors on the back and on low or medium the resistors glow bright red so I figured the old motor was drawing too much current and needed replacing so I pulled it out a few months ago and can no longer find it. I bought what seems like every website is suggest...

Daaaaaaang

All I care about is it mounting to the column I guess. I'm completely re wiring the truck when I get to that step of the build and I don't have the original turn signal lever so il figure somethig out for that. Mine was removed hen the previous owner threw in a signal stat. Thanks for the heads up.

if it works then it will be a great deal haha time will tell. Still have a ways to go before wiring is even considered in my project but I saw this and didn't want to pass it up for that price.

Here is the one I removed from my 66 I notice the red and white wires on this switch go into the back and the ones on the switch I just ordered go into the top plate.

Found this NOS bad boy on ebay for 89 shipped. Looks identical to the one I pulled out of my 66 that wasn't working and had a busted horn contact roller. It didn't list my truck in the applications but I rolled the dice. They had it listed for 69-73 heavy duty trucks. Hopefully it will work or as is...

My 66 truck had the straight trim along the side when I got it. It will not be going back on if you payed me too. I feel like it takes away from the coolest hardest body line on the truck.

I too will be going this route. You can get them with a horn button on the very end as well. It's not the 900 model though. http://www.truckspring.com/heavy-duty-t ... SM920.aspx

Tada! http://www.championradiators.com/Dodge- ... 1-radiator

Hmmm il have to dig around to see if I still have the stock /6 radiator. Did yours run hot and that's why it's now a 3 core

I thought the inlet and outlet were opposite on the a 318 radiators?

My truck was a /6 and am getting around to purchasing parts again to finish putting it back together. I'm sure there is no direct fit and I am aware of champions variety of aluminum radiators. Was wondering what some of
You guys are running that have swapped out for the 360?

PwrWgnDrvr wrote:They are absolutely, exactly the same size on every swept 61-71, every model 100-800.

Thank you sir.

Can someone measure the length of their 61-66 doors at the very bottom and at the body line. (Front to back) I've read that the only difference was the striker and handles but the 67? (Not totally sure on year) doors on my 66 cab never seemed to fit right,other than the obvious striker plate area. A...

This was the night I set the body back on the frame after not working on the truck for 2 years. It was a great feeling but still has a long way to come.

When my 68 triumph stops leaking. Something is usually wrong