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If you got them from a speed shop out Lansing, MI off ebay. I got 0.040 set. Just went through my set I haven't installed yet. All are0.040.

Check your midship bearing. The support bearing for the two piece drive shaft.

My response was going by the photo. Is the photo showing the coolant leak?

Upper exhaust bolt hole is a blind hole, lower is into a coolant passage. Looks like oil to me. First time I set valve lash on a poly had a similar looking oil leak.

Looks more like an oil leak. Those valve covers can be a pain to position correctly.

I traded the owner a set of big stud on both sides for a set of regular hydo bell mounts a few years back. At the time he was interested in making those, he has since gotten into making molded restoration electrical connections. You could call and see if he is going/willing to make them. it may take...

try imperial services

The standard are metal, you need to use paper/fiber with the aluminum intake. I have found paper gaskets on ebay.

Wally, that is an odd size fitting. On one of mine , I took, if I remember correctly, 2- 1/8 pipe taps ground 1 down. Tapped with the fresh one and then tapped using the ground 1 to allow the for the threads on a compression fitting to hold and seal. Had to grind one to get solid threads deep enough...

I had a simular noise on my '66 D100, rebuilt the NP435. Not it turned out to be the carrier bearing.

It is a freeze/casting type plug.

Yes

You might putting a capasitor on the coil. I believe when eletronic ignition first came out, copasitors were used to surpress radio noise. Not sure which side to put it on. Mark

I thought the frame mounts were the same. Just need to get correct engine mounts and isolators. The bell housing is drilled for /6, pre '62 and post '62 a 318. You will need to get a fly wheel for an '62-'68 hyddrolic clutch bell. The radiator for the /6 has the mounting brackets reverst from a/la r...

There was a post that covered this. It was on king pins. If I'm remembering correctly there were two different front axels for 3/4 tons. One completely different than the 1/2 ton, the other same as 1/2 with different spindles, or different backing platesdrums hubs.

Haven't aquired any parts yet. My plans are to get the ebay flanges, and some center dump shorty headers with 1-5/8" primary tubes. Remove the f**d flanges, test fit tubes to poly flange, make reliaf cuts to prevent cracking, and weld. The information I'm looking at showes the smf ports at 4.38 on c...

I' ve had a 435 apart. Should pull straight out, snug fit. The snap ring on the outer race is to act as stop, does not need to be removed. But first I'd make sure it is in nuetral, and remove the top cover. There are uncaged roller bearings inbetween the input and output shafts, that you may want to...

I have been planning the same thing. The information I have says that the middle two ports are 0.040 apart, the outer two are about an 1/8 (0.120) . My thoughts are to get a set of cheep set of shorty headers to try making a set so if (when) I screw this up I'm not loosing to much money. This does s...

Just wondering what you discovered caused the oil pressure.
Mark

I do not believe Edelbrock made a 4 barrel intake for the poly. The options are either a factory cast iron or Weiand #7503 for a single 4 barrel intake. Both are hard to come by.
Mark