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I don't have the Dodge number, but I have the number for the master from advance auto parts. CWH MCA 71258. I bought this in 2018. I had to go thru three different parts, returned the first two, finally this one was the right one. and they had it in stock. this one bolted right up, and is still work...

I got one from the local pull, and pay yard. the one I got was from a 70's dodge pickup. I think any Mopar 318 will fit. $3.00 bucks back then, early 2000.

all you have to do is push down on the shifter cover and twist counter clockwise. pretty strong spring under the cover, I used a pair of channel locks to get mine off. Ozzie.

69's didn't have marker lights, they had reflectors.

you are right, the only time my 69 W200 rides half way decent, is when I have a ton of rock in the bed, just the nature of the beast.

as far as the bell bolts, I never torqued them, just tightened them. never had a problem with them coming apart.

looking at the pins on the other end, they look correct for 69, and 71. 68's had bullet connectors. so it might work if it mounts alright in the top part of the column.

if you removed the distributor, the bottom of the shaft has a tab that fits into a slot, so it will either be the same place, or 180 degrees off.

I have replaced the clutch several times, and I have always left the bell in place. as long as you prop up the rear of the engine, before you pull the trans to keep it level replacing the clutch will be easy.

it sounds like when you pulled the wires, it pulled the pins , and lost a good connection. look where the wires come out of the column, and there is a connector the you can pull apart, and check the pins for a good connection.

i have three extra housing, with two or three lenses. I have a 69 W200 Powerwagon, these are the same kind if you are interested in them. they have some pitting, and I can't remember if all three have the amber lenses, I think they do.

I got some stainless ones at Fastenal.

the gas pedal on 70 pickup was not mounted on the floor, it was mounted on the fire wall above the floor.

I have the rod, and the adjusting nut. can't remember if the rubber spacer is with it. if you are interested in it, let me know, and I will check to see if the rubber is with it.

Edelbrock 1405, easy to dial in, and pretty good mileage.

sounds like the drive gear is not engaging the fly wheel. take it back to where you bought it.

wild guess here condenser? had a friend had a similar problem turned out to be the condenser. he had just tuned it up and replaced the cap, and rotor, but left the old condenser.

whoever rebuilt the engine probably painted it black. I had a chevy engine rebuilt once, and they painted it black.

the o ring might be from where the dip stick enters the oil pan? don't know if there is a o ring there, or the tube just slids in.

there is a vacuum port on the back of the carb that is for a power brake booster. I have that blocked off. is that the one you are talking about, or is there another one? I have blocked all the ports that I had before the rebuild, and I have never had this kind of problem.I think that the guy I had ...