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Maybe corrosion or crud on headlight switch terminals, connector, or internally. Do the front running lights do the same? If not, won't be the headlight switch. Also check firewall connectors for same. Finally I had a chance to work on them when they were failing and confirmed that the problem was ...

Maybe corrosion or crud on headlight switch terminals, connector, or internally. Do the front running lights do the same? If not, won't be the headlight switch. Also check firewall connectors for same. Front running lights work even when tail/tag lights don’t so the issue is clearly in the circuit ...

On my 67 D100, my taillights don’t work when it is cold until I have driven a mile or two, of course with the cabin heater blowing. I think they come on immediately if it is warm enough. At first I thought the issue might be in the steering column turn signal switch area but I don’t know why the tai...

Thanks for this detail Mark. Working on it now… You are quite welcome. Sorry I was a little flippant with my first reply, but it was just too good a pun to pass up, "pathetic license" being a developmental disability. No harm, no foul. I’d like to think of an appropriate way to turn the joke around...

make sure it spins freely very possable the pinion bearing is bad when you tighten it ,it might be chunky .... I would expect that at least the front pinion bearing should be changed out. It should be inspected. The whole point of all that torque the pinion nut requires is to compress a shim stack ...

When you placed the transmission in Park (I assume the truck is an automatic) outside your garage, I am surprised that it remained stationary & didn't try to roll away since it had no drive shaft. Does the pinion (the part inside the hole on the front of the rear differential housing) appear to be ...

The yoke fell off because there is a big @#% nut that holds it onto the pinion shaft and that nut loosened and fell off. It doesn't look damaged in the pic and you likely might be able to just put it back on, after acquiring a new "pinion nut" and washer if it had one. You will need to start by rem...

Yes folks, you read that right. I heard an alarming sound and I drove the truck straight home to check it out. I parked in front of the garage and opened the doors to pull in but the truck wouldn’t go any further. After pushing it into the garage I found the drive shaft laying on the ground, with th...

It appears I have a slow coolant leak coming through a crack in the block a couple of inches above where the oil pan bolts on. It’s on a 67 318. What would y’all do? Put some brand of crack repair in the oil? Jeff Got to ask. Why would you put crack repair in oil if its leaking coolant. :thinking U...

there are no coolant passages in the lower block( below the crank level), however, there are soft plugs higher up on the side of the block, rear of block also, these plugs sometimes leak with age. Check for your leak again, is it on the side , back or front. I’ve added a pic to my original post. Do...

It appears I have a slow coolant leak coming through a crack in the block a couple of inches above where the oil pan bolts on. It’s on a 67 318. What would y’all do? Put some brand of crack repair in the radiator? Something rotated this pic so you have to turn your head to the left to visualize it b...

if not going in all the way in keep spraying and wiggling ...unless something is stuck in it E That has been the plan so far. Spray one day wiggle the next then rinse and repeat. I thought about something being in there. But both are the same. Being a fire department truck for its first 30 years I ...

If you are not going to replace the metal, then I'd try stripping the paint, etching with naval jelly or the equivalent, rinse it CLEAN, passivate the surface with a converter such as Fertan, then go to a slow epoxy paste with glass matting to hold it if the holes are big. Once that's all cured, I'...

here is how i repaired my 62, best to repair with metal, but i have used epoxy like the 2part type, must clean and treat metal with anti-rust such as POR15 https://imageevent.com/jeffc/rust Wow. That is quite a repair job. I’m hoping I can seal it up and have it drain properly with less work than t...

Ok. Then we’d say the vent cowl area is rusted through to the cabin.

How might someone close up those rusted out areas in that tight space?

And what would you use? Body putty? Fiberglass?

—Jeff

First, do those cavities below the windshield wipers where air flows to the cabin vents have a name? It's a 67 D100. Mine are rusted through and rain pours into the cabin. I assume they’re supposed to drain to the ground somehow so I need to understand how that works so I can make sure those drains ...

Take them out and soak in solvent or penetrating oil.. Blow out and shoot full of lithium grease. You might get lucky. Document missing parts and put ad in Wanted section. :thinking :thinking :salut Yes to the solvent, EXCEPT, DO NOT USE OIL OR GREASE IN A LOCK! I've done a ton of locksmith work an...

martincom wrote: ↑

Fri May 05, 2023 4:51 am

I would think a locksmith would be able to disassemble, clean, lubricate and re-assemble. I'd start there.

Yes, I'm going with the locksmith. Less chance I destroy them worse :-)

--Jeff

I want to shore up my door locks. They haven’t worked for 23 years and the little connectors that block the door latch operation had both fallen off or been disconnected. To start the process I stuck the key in one of them. It got stuck and I had to use WD40 and compressed air to get it back out. I’...

That’s what I needed to know.

Thank you!

Jeff